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The market situation at the beginning of 2026 continues to offer favourable buying opportunities for e-MTB beginners. Full-suspension bikes are already available from specialist retailers for less than €4,000 and from direct mail order companies for as little as €3,000. Hardtails are a few hundred euros less. But the more expensive price segments are also well stocked. If you are looking for a light e-MTB under 20 kilos, for example, you will find what you are looking for from around 6000 euros. If, on the other hand, you are looking for a particularly light power bike, you will quickly end up in the five-digit price range. The price range is therefore just as wide as the range of e-MTB categories and the flood of models is almost unmanageable. We show you how to navigate through this jungle to find the right e-MTB model.
The E-MTB categories
The crucial question: hardtail or full-suspension e-mountainbike
Hardtails only have front suspension, the rear remains rigid. Advantages: The technology is low-maintenance, the pannier rack and mudguards are easier to fit. The price advantage over fullys is 1000 to 1500 euros. However, in relative terms, the weight advantage of E-MTBs is less than in the non-motorised sector, as the drive and battery account for a large proportion of the total weight. Hardtails are particularly suitable for everyday use, for touring on cycle paths and forest tracks and on easy terrain. If you are looking for real riding fun on more challenging trails and comfort for long tours, you are definitely better off with a full-suspension e-mountainbike.
Full-suspension e-mountainbikes are more versatile. The suspension elements at the front and rear provide considerably more control and comfort off the beaten track. This also compensates for deficits in riding ability. The weights of conventional fullys with powerful motors and large batteries are between 21 and 26 kilos.
The main category: All Mountain, Trail and Tour
The main category of e-mountainbikes comprises the terms all-mountain, trail and touring bikes. The differentiation between these individual categories based on suspension travel, as was the case a few years ago, no longer exists. The background: In the past, fullys with slightly less suspension travel tended to be assigned to the touring fullys category, as they usually had somewhat "braver" geometries. Nowadays, many fullys with less travel, i.e. in the 130 to 140 millimetre range, are very sporty due to their geometry and specification alone and are therefore not necessarily recommended for beginners.
The all-mountain category now includes full-suspension e-mountainbikes with suspension travel of between 130 and 160 or even 170 millimetres. The areas of use depend more on price ranges, geometries or specifications than on suspension travel. Whether an all-mountain bike is designed more for sporty trail rides and downhills can be determined, for example, by a slack steering angle, wide, coarsely profiled tyres with a stable casing and powerful brakes. If you are aiming for challenging alpine terrain with nasty trails, steep climbs and technical descents on your all-mountain bike, you should focus on the upper end of the suspension travel range, but also pay attention to modern geometry - slack head angle, long reach (front frame area), steep seat angle. This ensures a smooth ride at high speeds, safety on steep descents and, thanks to the steep seat angle, good climbing characteristics. Equally important: robust, high-quality components such as sturdy brakes, powerful suspension elements and stable tyres with good grip. Such riding characteristics are often supported by large 29-inch wheels. Sometimes you will find mixed tyres with 27.5-inch wheels at the rear and 29-inch wheels at the front. This mullet mix combines good rollover behaviour at the front wheel with manoeuvrability at the rear.
E-Enduros for extreme descents
The transition from high-performance all-mountain to downhill-orientated enduro is fluid. Many all-mountain bikes with 160/150 millimetres of travel and sporty frame geometry already offer bike park potential. Real e-enduro bikes have over 160 and up to 180 millimetres of travel.
Bikes in this class only come into their own in extreme terrain with rough, steep sections. Here they offer maximum riding safety. The frame, chassis and components are designed for the toughest conditions. The wheels should be particularly robust. Thick, chunky tyres with stable carcasses and good grip rubber compounds are standard, and the wheel sizes vary between 27.5 and 29 inches. Mixed tyres are also in vogue here.
The geometries of enduro bikes are long and flat, similar to many long-travel all-mountain bikes. They are therefore often not suitable for pure comfort riders. However, there are exceptions with balanced, beginner-friendly geometry. Touring riders also benefit from the high comfort aspect of the long suspension travel. The additional weight of the bikes and the higher rolling resistance of the heavy tyres are largely compensated for by the motor. Solid equipment is a must; recommended e-enduro bikes cost over 5000 euros.
Light e-MTBs for fit riders
Light e-MTBs stand for low weight and manoeuvrable handling. The target group are mountain bikers who are not comfortable with heavy e-MTBs but still want some motor support. The batteries are smaller, the motors weaker. As a result, the bikes only weigh 16 to 20 kilos, around 5 kilos less than classic e-mountainbikes. The rider has to provide more of their own power, and the smaller battery has to be used more sparingly on longer tours. Thanks to their lightweight construction, these bikes cost from 6000 euros.
Whether you opt for a light e-bike or a conventional e-mountainbike should depend on the main area of use, the sporting demands and, last but not least, your personal fitness. If you are mainly travelling on flat terrain and want to accelerate above the motor cut-off speed of 26 km/h, or if you have the fitness to power up short, crisp climbs on hilly terrain, a light e-mountainbike is a good choice for you.
Expensive compromise: lightweight power bikes
Despite their advantages, light e-MTBs have never really been able to establish themselves on the market. E-mountain biking also means: riding fun and flow when going uphill - the big difference to non-motorised mountain biking. And only the power motors really convey this uphill riding pleasure. In addition, the range of light bikes is limited due to the generally smaller batteries. Nevertheless, every biker longs for a bike that is as light as possible. Not only the better handling on the trail, but also the handling in everyday life - think of loading the bike onto a bike rack - speaks in favour of the lowest possible total weight.
For some time now, the industry has therefore been trying to close the gap between conventional power e-mountainbikes and light e-mountainbikes with a new category. The result: lightweight power e-MTBs with a total weight of around 20 kilograms, powerful motors and medium battery capacities. Power motors such as the DJI Avinox or the Bosch CX are only around 500 to 800 grams heavier than their lightweight counterparts. The weight saving on lightweight power bikes is mainly due to the slightly smaller batteries, but lightweight, expensive components also have a positive effect on the overall weight. So even with lightweight power bikes, developers are always looking for the best possible compromise: the lighter the battery, the shorter the range as a rule. And the lighter the components such as wheels, handlebars and cranks, the more expensive they often are. Lightweight power e-bikes are therefore usually priced above the 7,000 euro mark.
Classic power motors versus light drives
In addition to classic electric motors, light or minimal-assist drives have become established. The conventional powerful motors à la Bosch CX or DJI Avinox offer a wide range of applications and, in combination with large batteries, a long range. Torques between 85 and over 100 Newton metres and maximum outputs between 700 and around 1000 watts are a prerequisite for the best climbing characteristics, guaranteeing uphill riding fun and reserves for tired legs on long tours.
Light motors are usually quieter, smaller and lighter, but also significantly weaker. They are suitable for fit riders who are looking for a bike with a slight tailwind and want to make their classic tours more relaxed. They are not as much fun to ride uphill as their more powerful relatives, and their range is limited as they are usually combined with small batteries in complete bikes. However, the light motors are also gradually being equipped with more power: The torques of the Light units from TQ, Fazua and Bosch, for example, were given around 10 Nm more torque in their model updates. However, this has not reduced the gap to the Power motors, as these have also been gradually upgraded in terms of performance.
For beginners, for long tours and for demanding terrain, the power motors or the corresponding bikes are better suited. They guarantee uphill fun and provide reserves for long tours and steep climbs
Batteries: it's not just size that counts
Capacity and range
The battery size is linked to the motor power. The more power, the higher the power consumption. Classic e-MTBs currently usually have 700 to 800 watt hours, in exceptional cases up to 900 watt hours. Cheaper or older bikes come with 500 to 650 watt hours. Small batteries are significantly lighter, which is why light e-MTBs rely on compact batteries.
How much capacity an E-MTB really needs is extremely individual. Uphill sections draw significantly more battery than flat sections. The support level and physical condition are decisive. A light rider who has plenty of power will get much further than a weak and heavy rider. The size of the battery, the weight and the rider's own power therefore have a decisive influence on the range. For beginners, we recommend full-power systems with batteries of over 700 watt hours.
Integration and handling
Without exception, modern e-bikes come with integrated batteries that disappear neatly into the frame. However, there are significant differences in terms of integration. With classic systems, the batteries can be folded out of the down tube in just a few seconds. This is convenient, but makes the bike heavier. To save weight, more and more manufacturers are opting for a system in which the battery is pulled downwards out of the closed down tube. To do this, you usually have to turn the e-bike and loosen several screws.
The easiest solution is a permanently installed battery that cannot be changed by the customer. Such solutions are less suitable for people who can only charge their bike at home. Extending the bike day by using a second battery is also out of the question here.
However, many motor and bike manufacturers offer so-called range extenders - small additional batteries with a capacity of around 250 watt hours that are fitted to the down tube and significantly increase the overall range. A sensible combination for those bikers who prefer a light bike for their home rounds, but want to keep the option open for long tours with many metres in altitude.
Components: Motor relativises weight
Brakes and tyres
Even if you are not planning any extreme descents, you should make sure your e-MTB is well equipped. Powerful four-piston brakes with large 200 millimetre discs are not a luxury. Heavy riders, in particular, get even more stability and therefore safety on descents with 220 millimetre discs.
Robust and grippy tyres don't just make sense in the bike park. Good puncture protection prevents annoying punctures, high traction provides riding safety. The motor helps when pedalling, so tyres on E-MTBs can have a slightly coarser profile. A soft rubber compound at the front and a stable carcass at the rear are preferable. But there are limits: Particularly heavy and soft tyres have a negative impact on riding dynamics - unnecessary for normal use.
Suspension fork and seat post
The fork makes a decisive contribution to off-road control, and an upgrade is expensive. It is therefore better to buy a bike with a good suspension fork. With 34, 36 and 38 from Fox or Pike, Lyrik and Zeb from Rockshox, you are generally well served. The more expensive models come with better damping cartridges and more elaborate internals for more extensive adjustment options.
A small component makes a big difference off-road: the dropper post. It allows you to lower the saddle at the touch of a button and gives you significantly more freedom of movement when riding downhill. No E-MTB should be without a dropper post. We recommend at least 150 millimetres of travel for frame size L. The crowning glory of creation are wireless, electronically controlled dropper posts. Big advantage: the dropper post can be easily removed for transporting the bike in the car and for maintenance.
Gears and wheels
Almost all models today have twelve gears. Even inexpensive gears such as Sram's NX or Shimano's Deore work reliably. If in doubt, it's better to invest your money elsewhere. Small parts such as grips and saddle are important for riding enjoyment, but are also very individual and can be replaced quickly if in doubt. Expensive wheels and handlebars are more of a luxury on an E-MTB and therefore an option for well-heeled material fetishists. The same applies to electronic gears such as Sram Transmission and Shimano Di2.
Suitability for everyday use
E-mountainbikes are perfect all-rounders. With the motor assistance, even long flat sections on asphalt can be covered quickly and in a relaxed manner despite the heavy weight and chunky tyres. And in all weathers. If you also want to use your bike for everyday rides or commuting, you should think about weather protection and suitability for everyday use.
Full-size mudguards, pannier racks or kickstands can only be attached to specially prepared frames. On hardtails, the corresponding threads and mounting devices are standard in the frame, but not on fullys. There are also universal solutions, but these only offer limited functionality. Moderate E-MTBs are available ex works with full equipment - so-called SUV bikes.
Where to buy: Specialist retailer, direct mail order company or online shop?
Specialised trade
Specialist dealers specialise in personal support and comprehensive advice. A test ride is the best way to find out whether the frame size fits or whether you like the character of the motor. Specialist dealers score highly when it comes to support. If the bike starts acting up, you have the right person to talk to straight away.
Of course, there are also black sheep among the specialist dealers with exorbitant service prices and little expert advice. This is often difficult to assess in advance. Personal recommendations or customer reviews on public portals (Google Maps, Trustpilot, etc.) are most likely to help. Compared to online shops, the price level in specialist shops is somewhat higher.
Direct shipper
Direct mail order companies such as Canyon, Propain, Radon, Rose or YT often score with a very good price-performance ratio. However, you can't usually test ride the bikes here; advice is only available via chat or on the phone.
Overall, buying a mail-order bike requires a little more expertise in order to choose the right model. The bike is usually delivered partially disassembled in a box and must be assembled and adjusted by the customer. However, many mail order companies now have a good network of partner shops that can take over the assembly, set-up and servicing of the bike for a fee. However, the journey is usually much further than to the nearest bike shop round the corner. There are also test opportunities for mail-order bikes at relevant events, such as the BIKE festivals in Willingen or Leogang. Premium mail order companies such as Canyon or Rose invest in elaborate flagship stores where customers can take a look at a wide range of models and even take a short test ride.
Online shops
Online-only retailers also attract customers with favourable prices, as they do not have to shoulder the costs of bricks-and-mortar specialist retailers. But here too, advice and service are severely limited when buying online. Most mail order companies offer service partners or brand stores that can at least help in the event of a claim. The following online shops, for example, offer a large selection of e-bikes:
Newcomers to e-MTBs in particular should attach particular importance to test riding and testing different models. If you know exactly what you need and have some tinkering skills, you can save money by buying online.
How to buy: New, used or refurbished?
New purchase: the latest models
New bikes offer the latest technology and a full warranty. As many new bikes are currently heavily discounted, buying a new bike is currently the most attractive option, and not just for e-MTB beginners. If you want to save money, you can often get last year's and discontinued models at particularly good prices.
Buying used: Expertise required
How good is the battery, how worn are the components and bearings? Buying second-hand requires expertise and negotiating skills and is not recommended for beginners. Although used prices fall with new ones, the technology is often a bit older and the devil is often in the details. If you want to recognise worn drive components, dents in rims and cracks in the frame, you need to have a trained eye. Knowledge of mechanics is also helpful when buying used bikes. Second-hand shops are a safer alternative.
Refurbished bikes: price advantage is shrinking
Professional refurbishers such as Rebike, Jobrad Loop or Velio offer reconditioned used bikes, usually leasing returns, with a guarantee. Although these bikes are cheaper than new bikes, the current low new prices mean that you don't save quite as much as in previous years. The quality promises of the various providers are high and the market is highly competitive. Customer reviews (read the comments!) on public portals such as Trustpilot can help you make a judgement. In any case, refurbished purchases are an alternative to buying new if it doesn't necessarily have to be the latest model.
E-bike leasing: support from the state
E-mountain bikes with state subsidies are available with bike leasing. The prerequisite is that the employer has a contract with one of the many leasing providers. The monthly instalment for the bike is then simply deducted from the gross salary, resulting in a manageable net charge.
Whether the bike is actually used for travelling to work is of no interest. After leasing, the lessee can usually buy the bike out of the contract at a favourable rate. Unfortunately, leasing only works well for employees; the model is less attractive for the self-employed.
Josh Welz
Editor-in-Chief
