Buying a new gravel bike: This is what my dream gravel bike looks like, it has to have it

In this article, I present my personal catalogue of criteria - including the compromises I would consciously make.

Purpose and criteria

Before I start choosing a bike, I think about what I want to do with it. My intended use is short rides during the week, bikepacking tours on holiday and sometimes ultra-cycling events. I'm also considering taking part in gravel races. Accordingly, I'm looking for the classic all-rounder, i.e. a versatile gravel bike that works reliably in all areas.

1. first bike fitting, then bike selection

My most important rule is perhaps counterintuitive for some: first the bike fitting, then the bike. Many people go the other way round, fall in love with a model and then try to make it fit. This can work, but in the worst case it often leads to the bike not fitting at all and not being able to be adjusted to fit even with a new stem and more.

A good fitting provides clear data that can be used for a targeted bike search. However, all the figures from the fitting and the interpretation of the figures can quickly become overwhelming. My recommendation for you:

• Option A: Look for a bike shop that offers bike fitting and also has bikes in its range that meet your expectations. Large manufacturers such as Canyon and Specialized offer fittings, but of course many smaller bike shops do too.
• Option B: Many bike fitting studios also offer a pre-purchase fitting and then make bike recommendations based on the data obtained. If you are unsure, ask whether this is possible.

2. geometry: comfortably fast

The geometry determines how a gravel bike rides. According to my intended use, I pay attention to a more endurance-orientated geometry.

• A slightly slacker steering angle in combination with a longer wheelbase ensures stability. The bike remains stable at speed, reacts less nervously on loose surfaces and can also be ridden in a controlled manner with luggage. On gravel in particular, this means fewer corrections and more confidence.
• A higher stack and a moderate reach result in a slightly more upright riding position. This takes the strain off your back, shoulders and hands - a factor that is particularly noticeable on long rides.
• A lower bottom bracket also contributes to stability. The centre of gravity is lower, the bike feels smoother and is safer when cornering.

All in all, this results in a clear goal for me: a gravel bike that remains stable even in rough terrain and gives confidence - especially when the surface, luggage or fatigue are added to the mix.

You can also test ride different gravel bikes to get a feel for them. Intensive tests are possible at various test festivals and trade fairs. A small selection:

• Cyclingworld Europe in Düsseldorf: 20 to 22 March 2026
• Leipzig field test: 18 April at the Leipzig velodrome
• Ride'n Gravel Testival in Gramisch-Partenkirchen: 22 to 24 May 2026
• Gravel Ground at the Ewald colliery: 11 to 13 September 2026
  

3. tyre clearance: 50 mm as a basis

Tyre clearance is one of the key points for me when buying a bike. I make sure that a frame allows for tyres that are at least 50 millimetres wide - simply to remain flexible.

More volume brings clear advantages in practice. I can lower the air pressure, which provides more comfort and at the same time improves control on poor surfaces. This makes a big difference, especially on rough descents: the bike is smoother, I have more grip and feel much safer.

Another point is puncture resistance. More volume acts like additional suspension. The tyre can deform more and absorb impacts better before an obstacle - such as a stone - hits the rim.

Narrower tyres have less of a "buffer" due to their smaller volume. They are less able to deform, which means that impacts pass more directly through to the rim. This increases the susceptibility to punctures and defects.

I noticed the difference above all in direct comparison. With narrower tyres of around 40 millimetres, I was much more unsteady on the road and had to work harder. With 47 millimetre tyres and more, the bike rides noticeably smoother - especially downhill on rough gravel.

4. drive: as light as possible

The decisive point for me with the drive is the lowest gear. Especially with luggage, I'm not so fast anyway that I would like to ride faster than is possible with a comfortable cadence. In general, I rarely reach this limit. And then I just roll.

If the gearing is too hard, I might be able to get up the hill quickly on paper, but in practice it hurts. To be able to pedal at all, I have to keep the cadence reasonably high. Then I'm faster than people with lighter gearing, but the pressure is high. This strain adds up, especially when you have to cover a lot of metres in altitude.

I realised this particularly clearly when I took part in the Seven Serpents. Over the distance (more than 800 kilometres), it wasn't endurance that was the problem, but the strain on my knees. In the end, I was happy about every climb that was so steep that I had to dismount and push.

Back then, I rode a 38-42 setup - from today's perspective, this is almost unimaginable for me. I now ride 38-46 and also 38-52 on many steep climbs with luggage, which means I can get up a lot of climbs and have to push a lot less. But it's still exhausting and I keep asking myself "how the hell did I get up here on my old bike?".

5. groupset: does not have to be as light as possible

The high-end groupsets are technically impressive: lighter, more precise, more expensive. For my intended use, however, the weight plays a subordinate role.

I would therefore deliberately not go for the top group, but look for the best ratio of function, price and suitability for everyday use.

Within the SRAM groupsets this means for me:

• SRAM Red is light and technically leading, but very expensive
• SRAM Force offers many of the same features at a much better price
• SRAM Rival is the cheapest, but also the heaviest and somewhat more simply equipped

One detail that is actually relevant for me: both Force and Red offer additional bonus buttons on the gear levers. This means I can not only shift gears, but - depending on the setup - also operate my sat nav. This is a practical advantage, especially on longer tours, because both hands can stay on the handlebars.

My current choice would therefore be the SRAM Force. For me, it offers the best compromise between function, robustness and price.

But it's not quite that simple.

I'm taking a different approach with the crank: according to Bikefitting, 155 mm is ideal for me. This length will soon only be available with the SRAM Red. Force and Rival cranks currently end at 165 mm.

My ideal drivetrain would be a combination of a Rival groupset with a Red crank.

For me, this also shows the actual approach quite well: it's not about riding the "best" group, but about putting together the components in such a way that they suit your own body and use.

6. mounting points on frame and fork

I have a top tube bag with me on almost every ride. I would like to have attachment points on the top tube for this. For me, the advantage is that the straps of the top tube bag don't get in the way of a possible frame bag. It also looks cleaner. However, not every screw-on top tube bag fits all attachment points, as they are positioned differently from bike to bike. Sometimes there is a large gap between the bag and the stem, sometimes the bag bumps against it. My ideal solution: a customised bag, for example from Gramm Tourpacking, fo.Goods or other manufacturers. Depending on the design and strap, top tube bags can be attached with both variants.

I would also like to see attachment points on the fork. Especially for tours with more luggage, for example in winter, it's worth its weight in gold for me to have fork bags with me. I put a change of gloves in there, for example, and other stuff that I want to get to quickly.

A bottle cage option under the down tube can also be practical for stowing additional luggage. To summarise briefly: My dream bike has:

• Bolt-on points on the top tube
• Bolt-on points under the down tube
• Bolt-on points on the fork

Mudguard mounting points are not important to me at the moment, although it would sometimes be practical in autumn and winter.

7. cable routing: tidy vs. maintenance-friendly

When it comes to cable routing, I opt for an integrated solution - despite the disadvantages. The main reason is the cockpit. With a handlebar bag, lights, computer and trailers, space quickly becomes tight and the cables get in the way. Internally routed cables ensure a tidy look and fewer sources of interference.

This is offset by higher maintenance costs and more complex conversions. You can't just swap the handlebars or install a different stem.

For my current purpose, the advantages outweigh the disadvantages. I would re-evaluate this decision for longer expeditions. But travelling the world is not currently on my bucket list. It's not compatible with my full-time job.

8. frame material: robustness before weight

When it comes to frame material, I focus on robustness over weight. My gravel bike should be used a lot - in changing conditions, with luggage and without constant consideration for sensitive surfaces. That's why I tend to favour titanium or steel.

Both materials are considered durable and uncritical in use. Titanium in particular has the advantage that scratches hardly play a role. Gone are the days of frame protection films. The titanium frame is polished from time to time and looks almost like new again. I have also found a powder coating on a steel frame to be more robust than any paint on carbon.

9. compromises on handlebar width

I am 1.60 metres tall. That means I need a small bike. My shoulders aren't particularly broad either, so a handlebar width of 380 mm would be ideal on a gravel bike. My handlebars should have some flare, i.e. be flared at the bottom. There aren't many that are that narrow. I currently ride a Deda Superzero Gravel carbon handlebar with a width of 420 mm. I have rotated the brake levers slightly inwards so that my grip position in the hoods is narrower, but when I reach down into the drops for more control, I have more control thanks to the width.

Conclusion

• Bike fitting and a defined purpose help to find the right bike
• Every decision is a matter of consideration
• Tip: write down what is important to you and determine how much you want and can spend

>> Gravel bike basics: The most important aspects of the all-rounder

>> Bikepacking bike tips: Which is the right bike for a bikepacking tour?

>> Gravel riding technique: Tips for gravel biking on different terrain