Mountain bike spring check part 1Spring cleaning your bike

Stefan Frey

 · 13.03.2026

Long downtime over the winter or a muddy off-season? We'll show you how to get your bike back in shape.
Photo: Georg Grieshaber

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The spring snowflakes are already sprouting outside! Time to finally wake your mountain bike from hibernation. Or have you been riding all winter? Whether it's a long downtime or an intensive off-season - your bike and your equipment could do with a thorough service now. In three themed blocks, we'll show you how to get your MTB ready for the new season and how to spruce up your equipment. Let's start with the spring clean!

Before you can thoroughly check your bike before the first tour, the following applies: First, the crust from the last muddy ride or the layer of dust from the cellar must be removed in order to be able to properly recognise all weak points. This is not rocket science and can even be really fun with a few suitable tools. Find out what you need and how to do it here:



You need these parts for cleaning

Brush set, wash mitt, cleaning bucket and microfibre cloth - you're ideally prepared for washing your bike.Photo: Stefan FreyBrush set, wash mitt, cleaning bucket and microfibre cloth - you're ideally prepared for washing your bike.
  • It doesn't necessarily have to be the mobile pressure washer (Stihl RCA 20 cordless pressure washer in test), water from the garden hose or even a simple bucket and a sponge are sufficient for cleaning bicycles
  • A wide variety of lubricants are used on mountain bikes. When you wash your bike, the oils can be washed off and end up in the environment. It's best to find a place that protects against environmental pollution - for example a washing area with oil separation. At home, you can also make a base out of old cardboard to soak up the oil. Ideally, only use environmentally friendly lubricants.
  • A large brush with soft bristles (e.g. Muc-Off Soft Washing Brush) to get the bike clean. For tight spots, however, we also recommend a flexible round brush (e.g. Dynamic Cone Brush). Also a small brush with sturdy bristles for the drive. A washing glove like the F100 THE wash mitt doesn't have to be, of course, but it makes work much easier.
  • It is best to use a lint-free cloth or a microfibre cloth to rub dry.
  • A special Bicycle cleaner is not absolutely necessary, but it dissolves bike-specific dirt better than a normal soap-based cleaner, for example. By the way: In Germany, bike cleaners must be biodegradable in order to be authorised for sale.

How basic cleaning works

It is best to clamp the bike in an assembly stand or a wheel holder, as this is the easiest way to work. Mechanic's gloves protect your hands from dirt and lubricants. To start, rinse off coarse dirt with clear water and soften the bike.

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1. spray the drive

This is where the toughest dirt lurks. Spray all parts of the drive with a Organic chain cleaner, then leave to act briefly. We do not recommend using chain cleaning devices, as they remove all the lubrication from the chain. Why do we start with the drivetrain? Because otherwise you will fill the clean bike with oily dirt again.

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Let's start with the drivetrain. The best way to do this is to use a degreaser, which dissolves oil and grease better than normal bike cleaner.Photo: Georg GrieshaberLet's start with the drivetrain. The best way to do this is to use a degreaser, which dissolves oil and grease better than normal bike cleaner.

2. clean the drive

Use a small brush with hard bristles to scrub the chain, cassette, cranks and derailleur pulleys thoroughly. One Pinion brush can help to remove dirt between the sprockets. If possible, keep the chain cleaner away from the bearings. Then rinse everything clean with water.

Small brush, hard bristles, big effect. Never use the frame brush for the drive!Photo: Georg GrieshaberSmall brush, hard bristles, big effect. Never use the frame brush for the drive!

3. lathering

Now you can rinse the rest of the bike briefly with clear water to soak off the dirt. Then with environmentally friendly bike cleaner (12 bike cleaners in the test) spray on. Brakes and brake discs are generally not affected by this, so don't panic before the foam bath. Again, leave the cleaner to work according to the manufacturer's instructions. The foam carpets that bubble out of the mobile cleaners may have a high entertainment value, but they spread cleaner around unnecessarily and are more suitable for large areas, such as on cars.

Once the drive unit has been rinsed, you can shampoo the rest of the bike with bike cleaner.Photo: Georg GrieshaberOnce the drive unit has been rinsed, you can shampoo the rest of the bike with bike cleaner.

4. scrubbing

A brush with long, soft bristles gently removes the coating from the frame, wheels and suspension elements. Never use the drive unit brush for this! Don't forget hidden areas such as the underside of the saddle, fork crown or the underside of the seat and chain stays. Wash out the brush from time to time to avoid spreading dirt unnecessarily.

After the cleaner has worked in, remove the remaining dirt with a large brush with long, soft bristles.Photo: Georg GrieshaberAfter the cleaner has worked in, remove the remaining dirt with a large brush with long, soft bristles.

5. shower off

Dirt and cleaning agents can now be easily washed off with a gentle jet. Always proceed from top to bottom. Caution: Do not use a hard jet of water on the bearings!

The bike is then rinsed - from top to bottom, of course.Photo: Georg GrieshaberThe bike is then rinsed - from top to bottom, of course.

6. dry rubbing

Drying with a microfibre cloth is not only worthwhile in winter. Pay particular attention to clean sliding surfaces and seals on the suspension elements. However, make sure that there is no dirt on the cloth that could scratch the running surfaces. Finally, wipe the drive dry with an old cloth.

To prevent water stains, at least "leather" the frame with a microfibre cloth.Photo: Georg GrieshaberTo prevent water stains, at least "leather" the frame with a microfibre cloth.

7. relubrication

The dry drive now requires new lubrication, at best with Organic chain oil (we have tested 14 environmentally friendly lubricants here). Only ever apply lubricant to the chain rollers. Drizzle a little oil on moving parts and joints. Wipe off any excess chain oil after it has worked in, otherwise it will attract an unnecessary amount of dirt.

Pull the chain through a lint-free cloth again and then re-oil - but only on the running surface of the chain.Photo: Georg GrieshaberPull the chain through a lint-free cloth again and then re-oil - but only on the running surface of the chain.

8. sealing

If you finish off your bike with a protective wax, you will make the next cleaning easier. This makes it difficult for dirt to stick to the bike. To prevent wax from getting onto brake discs and pads, you can also apply the spray to a cloth and rub it into the relevant areas. Read here to find out exactly how frame care works and which products we can recommend.

If you want to be really precise, you can treat the frame with a protective spray. This makes it harder for dirt to adhere.Photo: Georg GrieshaberIf you want to be really precise, you can treat the frame with a protective spray. This makes it harder for dirt to adhere.

Stefan Frey is from Lower Bavaria and loves the mossy, loamy trails of the Bavarian Forest as much as the rugged rock of the Dolomites. For technical descents, he is prepared to tackle almost any ascent - under his own steam. As an accessories specialist, he is the first port of call for questions about equipment and add-on parts, while as head of copywriting he sweeps the language crumbs from the pages of the BIKE print editions.

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