How-to chain wax: Less wear and tear and no more dirty fingers

Of course, the easiest way is to buy pre-waxed chains. But the DIY method also has its appeal: nerds can let off steam during the preparation stage and mix waxes to their own taste. For those who like it uncomplicated, there are tools that make chain waxing much easier. We used the Cyclowax waxing kit here. Degreasing comes before waxing. The entire drive should be dry metal. Caution: The factory lubrication is tough and a used and dirty chain is a poor starting point anyway.

Dismantling the chain

We start with a used chain, which we open using chain lock pliers. If you don't have a special tool to hand, you can use a few tricks to open the chain lock. You can find out how this works in a separate article. Important: 12-point chain locks are generally intended for single use. So if you want to be on the safe side, use a new chain lock to lock the chain.

Degrease drive

Dirty chains should be roughly pre-cleaned before degreasing. Then place the chain in a sufficiently large preserving jar; a freezer bag is also a good alternative. The best way to remove grease from used chains is with brake cleaner. For new chains, you can use nitro thinner. The chain should be completely covered with the degreaser.

Leave to work for about 5 minutes. Then shake vigorously for two minutes so that the cleaner can also penetrate the rollers. The process should be repeated at least once. The liquid should be relatively clear at the end.

Rinsing with alcohol

Cleaning is followed by a final rinse with isopropanol, also in a suitable container. Finally, allow the alcohol to evaporate. The chain is then ready for chain waxing. Alternative: Place a new chain with original lubrication in the wax bath and add Silca's Strip Chip - this chemical hardens the grease in the wax bath. Silca also offers Chain Stripper, an effective degreaser for treatment before the wax bath, which also simplifies the degreasing of the chain.

Clean cassette/drive

If you want to convert a used drivetrain to wax, you must also clean the cassette. The cassette can remain fitted for this. Brush the cassette with drive cleaner and degreaser until it shines. You can also treat the derailleur pulleys and chainring in the same way to achieve the best possible result.

Allow to dry

After cleaning, hang the chain on a wire and allow it to dry completely before starting the waxing process. It is best to leave the chain to dry completely overnight.

Melting wax

Pour all the wax into a pot that is not too large - the chain must be completely immersed in the wax later. A slow cooker that allows you to monitor the temperature is best for this. However, a normal pot and a meat thermometer are also a good solution. Some manufacturers now also offer special cookers that maintain a fixed temperature. The temperature for chain cooking should be between 75 and 95 degrees Celsius - the specifications vary depending on the manufacturer. The hotter the temperature, the thinner the wax becomes. Too hot is bad. Too cold too.

Before you dip the chain into the liquid wax, thread both ends onto a sturdy wire - a metal coat hanger works well here - this makes it easier to remove from the pot at the end and also to drip off. Our Cyclowax cooking set includes a practical wire for threading. Don't forget the chain lock!

The chain wax must penetrate every crack

To ensure that the wax gets between all the rollers and pins, you can move the chain back and forth and up and down in the wax bath. The chain links must bend slightly so that the wax can penetrate.

After about 15 to 20 minutes, you can switch off the wax bath. The wax and chain now cool down until a thin layer of skin forms on the wax bath - similar to your breakfast cocoa :-) - this happens at approx. 60° Celsius. The skin layer is the decisive criterion, not the temperature.

Remove the chain and allow to cool down

Now you can carefully remove the necklace from the pot and hang it over the wax bath to drip dry. This way you can continue to use the excess wax. Important: The necklace should only drip a little, otherwise you will have taken it out of the pot too soon.

Break in chain

When the chain has cooled down - leave it hanging for at least 30 minutes, preferably a little longer - the joints are as stiff as your fingers after a winter bike tour. Before you fit the chain, you need to "break it in". To do this, you can either make each individual link flexible. Or you can take the chain at both ends and carefully pull it over a bar.

Finally, remount the chain on your bike - it is best to always use a new chain lock and importantly: pay attention to the running direction. The chain should be run in for around 50 kilometres. Before that, it may run a little bumpy from time to time.

Clean and regrow chain

Water is usually sufficient to clean the chain. After riding in the wet, you should briefly wipe the chain dry with a clean cloth. One treatment should get you about 800 to 1000 kilometres before you start using hot wax again. However, depending on the intensity of use, you will need to re-wax earlier.

How to apply the liquid wax

Wipe chains dry after every wet ride and clean with Drip wax Lubricate sparingly - excessive application is wasteful. Advantage of wax: the lubricant can be massaged in with the fingers. The main aim is to fill the joint gaps. Drip wax needs a few hours to flash off and harden. It is best to leave the bike overnight. Water-based drip waxes (most of them) should not be used in frosty conditions.