Tour 1: Edelweiss circuit
- Length: 50 kilometres
- Uphill: 689 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium
Tour description
The highlight of the tour is the crossing of the Kalbenstein north of Karlstadt. The striking steep face on the banks of the Main is a so-called baffle slope. These are created by erosion because the water has a stronger current on the outer bend than on the inside. Shortly after the start, you enter the first trail, which leads for four kilometres to the Mariabuchen monastery church. Then it's an undulating ride across the plateau to the ruins of Karlburg Castle, which towers above Karlstadt and offers great views. A glance to the left across the River Main reveals the rest of the route along the edge of the slope. But first, the crossing of the old town centre offers the opportunity for a refreshment stop. The finest trails with views follow, ending at the Kalbenstein, where a steel edelweiss rises into the sky instead of a summit cross.
Note: The entire mountain is a nature reserve, so only stay on the marked bike trail! After crossing the Main at the Harrbach lock, the trail climbs back up to the Rammersberg. The last trail leads past the Schönrain ruins back to Steinbach.
Starting point: The Bikelodge in Steinbach, about two kilometres up the Main from Lohr. If you are coming from Lohr, take the Main cycle path on the east bank.
Highlights: The only one of the three tours that does not run through the Spessart proper. Therefore: enjoy the far-reaching views! There are particularly beautiful views of the Main around Karlstadt. Also worth seeing: the Mariabuchen pilgrimage church and the two castle ruins along the way.
Key points: In general, the trails are flowing and easy to ride. The most challenging sections are the ascents around the Mariabuchen pilgrimage church.
Retreat: The old town centre of Karlstadt is lined with inns, snack bars and ice cream parlours.
Tour 2: Birkenhainer Straße
- Length: 50.7 kilometres
- Uphill: 785 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: easy
Tour description
The Birkenhainer Straße and the Eselsweg were once the most important transport routes through the Spessart. One travelled from west to east, the other from north to south. The route leads from Lohr northwards into the Spessart forests to meet the Birkenhainer at the Bayrische Schanz inn. At the beginning, there is a steady climb up to the Oberspeicher reservoir, partly on forest roads, partly on trails. The lake offers one of the rare views over the low mountain range. Tip for a short after-work ride: some trails start at the lake and lead back to Lohr. The route then dives back into the undergrowth and heads towards Bayrische Schanz via Katharinenbild. Today's Waldschänke was once a customs station between Bavaria and Hesse. Here we join the Birkenhainer Straße heading east towards Gemünden. Initially a forest path, it soon turns into a trail no less than 10 kilometres long. Glances to the side now and again reveal the old road route, sometimes as a hollow track or just as parallel ditches in the forest. In Langenprozelten near Gemünden, the route rejoins the Main and the cycle path back to Lohr. An encore? The detour into the fairytale forest provides another fun trail.
Starting point: The Bikelodge in Steinbach, about two kilometres up the Main from Lohr. Or you can start directly in Lohr along the route.
Highlights: Almost 18 kilometres of trails in total - if that's not a highlight! And the almost 360-degree view at the reservoir is quite unique in the Spessart. Historically interesting: at kilometre 29 you pass the reconstructed foundation walls of Einsiedel Monastery.
Key points: All paths and trails are flowing and easy to ride.
Retreat The Bayrische Schanz may be the highest inn in the Spessart, but it's not "Das Wirthaus im Spessart" from the old German comedy film about robbers. Anyway, a break in the Schanz beer garden is a must!
Tour 3: Aurora trails
- Length: 38.1 kilometres
- Uphill: 790 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium
Tour description
The centrepiece of this trail is the rustic Forsthaus Aurora above the Hafenlohr valley. The only downer: the restaurant is only open on Sundays and public holidays. But at least the tour date is fixed. After a steep path ramp directly on the outskirts of Lohr, the route passes the cross-country racing tracks of the RV Wombach. If you want to do a lap there: watch out, challenging! The ascent to Karl-Neuf-Platz follows, where a beautiful view opens up at the summit cross. Fun fact: In 1990, a Transall aircraft of the German Armed Forces crashed near the old quarry. Gravel paths now lead over to Forsthaus Aurora. However, you should refrain from taking a break until the second passage. It's better to ride the long trail into the Hafenlohr valley first! And after the unavoidable tough gravel ascent, the snack tastes better anyway. On the way back to Lohr, the locals have discovered a real trail highlight: Route 44 is mostly flowy, but surprises with suddenly appearing root and bumpy passages. Watch out!
Starting point: The Bikelodge in Steinbach, about two kilometres up the Main from Lohr.
Highlights: The never-ending fun lines Hafenlohr Trail and Route 44 and the Aurora forester's lodge in the middle of the forest.
Key points: Both trail highlights are a little steeper and sometimes rougher than "usual" in the Spessart. On the last descent, the trail even bumps through a small sea of rocks.
Retreat: If the Forsthaus Aurora is closed (on weekdays), you have to hold out until you reach Lohr's old town centre at the end or take a snack with you.
District info Spessart
Lohr am Main is located on the eastern edge of the Spessart in the state of Bavaria. From the towns of Gemünden and Lohr, the Main forms a striking U-shape and virtually flows around the low mountain range on its way to Aschaffenburg, Frankfurt and finally the Rhine. In the north, a smaller part of the Spessart already belongs to Hesse. The Spessart is not famous for its striking peaks (highest peak: Geiersberg, 586 metres), but because it forms the largest contiguous forest area in Germany. Travelling through it in the Middle Ages was quite feared. Because on the notorious Eselsweg and Birkenhainer Straße trade routes, there was a constant risk of falling into the hands of robber gangs. Due to the woodland and gentle topography, views and vistas are rather rare in the Spessart. The Main valley around Lohr with its steeper slopes is a welcome exception.
The knowledge of the locals is very helpful when tracking down the trails. Otherwise you might end up pedalling for kilometres along dead-straight forest roads past the exciting robber trails.
Travelling by train: Lohr is on the Main-Spessart railway line and can be reached every hour on the hour from Würzburg and Aschaffenburg. There, the regional railway is connected to the national rail network.
Overnight stay: The Bike Lodge Spessart recently opened in the Steinbach district of Lohr. Bikers will find everything they need in the property, which is built almost entirely from local wood. From a delicious breakfast buffet to a bike garage with DIY workshop. Depending on your budget, the lodge offers double rooms or small multi-bed flats, some with a mini-kitchen (Hofstettener Straße 14 a, tel. 09352/5009026, www.bikelodge.de). Outdoor fans can pitch their tents at the Mainufer campsite, just a stone's throw from the old town (Jahnstraße 12, tel. 0163/7301846, www.camping-lohr.de). Further bike-friendly accommodation is listed on the city's website.
Bikeshop: The CUBE Store has the most important spare parts in stock. (Emergency) repairs possible on request. Weinbergweg 6, Tel. 09352/6049570, cube-store-rhoen.de
Food & Drink
If you want to round off the day at the Bikelodge, you should make a reservation for dinner in the restaurant. The cuisine tempts you with a variety of regional and international dishes. Really tasty. But even those who prefer to stroll through Lohr's old town in the evening can succumb to culinary temptations on every corner. For example in the Keiler Brauhaus, where the schnitzel tastes even better with beer from the brewery's own kettles. Or a tasty Franconian pint at Weinhaus Mehling, right next to the historic town hall. It is said that Snow White's mirror once hung on the wall of this traditional parlour (www.weinhaus-mehling.de). Also worth a visit is Richards Weineck in the upper Brückenstraße, which serves beer as well as wine. Notorious on the menu: currywurst extra hot with habanero chilli.
General information
Tourist Information, Schlossplatz 5, 97816 Lohr a.Main, Tel. 09352/848465, www.lohr.de
District highlights
Bikepark Frammersbach
Gravity fans will find a bike park in Frammersbach, 12 kilometres northwest of Lohr. Eight different descents wind their way down the ski slope on the Sauerberg. Levels range from challenging to family-friendly. The user fee is 8 euros per day (without lift). On days when the lift is in operation (approx. 10 times a year), the ticket price starts at 20 euros. Info: www.msf-frammersbach.de.
LA Trail Laufach
In Laufach, 25 kilometres west of Lohr (near Aschaffenburg), the LA Trail was opened in April 2023. The trail stretches from Waldhaus Engländer on the Eselsweg to Laufach. There are several segments with difficulty level S2, some with built obstacles. Further information on the Instagram page LA.TRAILS.
Flowtrail Bad Orb
The Bad Orb flow trail awaits in the northern Spessart. A small trail network has been created here around the spa town in recent years. In addition to a practice course, there are currently two trails, the Haseltal Trail and the Wintersberg Trail. A third trail called the DonBosco Trail is currently under construction but can be ridden. Info www.flowtrail-badorb.de
Lohr Castle
The talking mirror from 1710, exhibited in the Spessart Museum in Lohr Castle, is regarded as an indication that Snow White could have come from Lohr. But there are also facts about the history of the Spessart, www.spessartmuseum.de
The Revierguide report
It could be art, but perhaps it can also be removed. In front of the town hall in Lohr, a group of mountain bikers have gathered around a sculpture. The bizarre object resembles an elephant's leg, on which the snake-armoured head of Medusa is enthroned. "A modern interpretation of the fairytale character Snow White," Enrico, one of the riders, explains to me and seems to smile a little. The others in the circle can hardly hide their amusement either. "It cost the culture department over a hundred thousand euros. About five times the expected sum." No, this is not how the self-proclaimed Snow White town of Lohr had imagined its new landmark. Neither visually nor in terms of price. That's what happens when you organise an art competition but don't ask the winner how much it will cost to create the original. In the meantime, the locals take the artistic freedom with humour. The figure has long since lost its nickname "Horrorwittchen" and is almost more popular - at least for a tourist selfie - than the lamblike original Snow White. There is even a graffiti on the wall of a subway in Lohr showing the fairytale monster chasing after the seven dwarfs with a drawn knife. Oops, is it a coincidence that we are exactly seven bikers today? Let's get out of here and onto the trails!
The path sections add up between Lohr and Karlstadt
It's the second day that I'm out and about with the locals from RVV Wombach. A bit of urban culture to break up the tour programme can't hurt. The club, based in the southern district of Lohr am Main, is an institution in the Spessart region with a history stretching back almost 100 years. At any rate, it is clear at first glance that the cycling here is serious: I see lightweight carbon fullys, even lighter hardtails, narrow handlebars, club outfits and sinewy legs wrapped in streamlined Lycra. However, the sporty look does not mean that the Wombachers are exclusively on the fast lane of forestry tracks. Enrico explains: "Every path that dips into the undergrowth to the left and right of the main arteries is incorporated into the training laps." Oh yes, I was able to see this for myself the day before. Even though the familiarisation tour only took me through the periphery of the Spessart. Between Lohr and Karlstadt, the trail sections add up to a whopping 16 kilometres in length. You'll hardly find that even in the Alps. It's easy to get over the fact that the symbolic Edelweiss on the summit of the Kalbenstein was only welded together from sheet metal. On the other hand, the panorama over the Main is particularly photogenic.
After paying due tribute to the region's art treasures, today we will head into the heart of the legendary Spessart Forest. Where, according to historical lore, not only were several gangs of robbers up to mischief, but also, according to modern conjecture, Snow White found refuge with the seven dwarfs on her escape from the evil stepmother. Probably. Maybe. Nothing is known for sure. I have to postpone my musings on this until later anyway, because the leaders of the group, Enrico and Arno, are walking at such a brisk pace that all my blood is suddenly needed to supply my leg muscles. It's hard to believe how steep a seemingly harmless German low mountain range can be. I would love to apply for a cure at the former lung sanatorium at Franziskushöhe. But when the Wombach D-train starts rolling, the only thing that helps is to keep at it.
Fortunately, there's a breather at the Beilstein refuge, not least because of the really beautiful view of Lohr. Arno points across the town. "Back there at the edge of the forest is our DM-approved race course," says the head of the club's cycling department. "Just a few days ago, another race took place there for the national junior classification." RVV Wombach is known for its good work in the youth sector. As if to confirm this, we meet Noah Sinner from Lohr, who has already won this race, a few kilometres further on at the upper basin. The 15-year-old in the jersey of the Ghost Junior Team is doing his mountain training in typical Spessart style: always up and down. After all, it's almost 400 vertical metres from Lohr up to the small reservoir. "You have to get your altitude metres in somehow," says Noah and, after a short period of pulse calming, he disappears back into the forest with a dry start. Meanwhile, I take in the Spessart ambience. Endless expanses. Gently curving lines on the horizon. Summit crosses hidden in the middle of the forest. Wayside shrines with images of saints where hikers find solace. Crossroads with ancient signposts made of weathered wood. Orientation was and is vital in a landscape where views are rare.
My orientation is Enrico's rear wheel, which turns unswervingly sometimes left, sometimes right. Soft forest soil caresses the tyres. We glide along almost silently. Our next stops are the Katharinen Trail, Fürstenweg, Lohrberg and Nettle Trail. The latter spits us out at the Bayrische Schanz inn, a former customs station on the border between Bavaria and Hesse. Old writings tell us that travellers found a rest stop here in the middle of nowhere as early as the 17th century. Travelling through the Spessart was associated with hardship back then. And the great danger of falling into the hands of notorious robber gangs. After two dozen kilometres of trail, a stop-off is just what we need. Wheat beer foams into the glasses, the non-alcoholic version of course, and the innkeepers conjure up a hearty snack to go with it. The ubiquitous head of a wild boar is emblazoned above the bar. On the one hand as a symbol of the Spessart region, which is rich in wild boar, and on the other as the trademark of the famous brewery in Lohr. And that's not all: the Keiler Bike Marathon, which was held for the first time in 1997, was also one of the classics in the bike scene for decades. Until registrations dwindled during the pandemic. "Corona practically killed the Keiler Marathon," says Arno with a mixture of anger and sadness. "After the 2022 event, it was unfortunately over." The break is now over too, as the Wombach racehorses are already back on their hooves, true to the motto "You rest, you rust".
We turn into Birkenhainer Straße, which sounds much more boring than it is. Because there's not much left of the old "road" other than a kilometre-long singletrack trail. Just the way we like it! Alongside the Eselsweg, which runs from north to south, the Birkenhainer was once the most important east-west traverse through the Spessart. We glide at a brisk pace through dark hollow paths, past kilometre stones and ominous memorial crosses. Relics from an era when travelling was not fun, but a necessary evil. Most people had neither time nor money for pleasure and romance. The word holiday had not yet been invented. At best, the occasional public witch-burning provided a change from the gruelling daily routine. The excavation site at the former Einsiedl monastery, which we pass after several kilometres of trail, also bears witness to the atrocities of the Middle Ages. The Birkenhainer then descends into the Main valley, where it either starts or ends at Gemünden, depending on the direction of travel. Before our tour ends down the Main in Lohr, the locals have planned a detour. Passing the Nantenbacher Heiligengrotte (grotto of saints), we enter the woods once again. It is not for nothing that the Forest Spirits Trail bears its name, as we are suddenly surrounded by wooden forest gnomes, goblins and other fairytale characters. It's a good thing we're travelling quickly. Not that the horror witch is lurking somewhere behind the next tree.
