The Lusatian Mountains run along the German-Czech border in the south-easternmost corner of Saxony. Or - depending on your point of view - in the northernmost tip of the Czech Republic. Because the location for the tours is in the Bohemian village of Hermanice v Podještedí. With an area of around 50 by 25 kilometres, the Lusatian Mountains are a manageable size. This offers mountain bikers many opportunities to discover every nook and cranny. In the Czech part in particular, you can enjoy pure nature, as the entire mountain range was declared a protected landscape back in 1976. The larger towns of Liberec and Ceská Lípa lie well outside the biking area. The cone-shaped mountains of the Border Mountains look like small volcanoes, and a look at their geological history confirms their fiery origins. The Lausche is the highest peak at just 793 metres, with many others between 600 and 750 metres. But its flanks are steeper than you might think. Bikers get to feel this often enough. The secret of the Lusatian Mountains is their impressive basalt formations, which are hidden in the forest everywhere. And at their feet are colourful sandstone cliffs that are almost reminiscent of the famous US bike mecca in Moab.
Tour 1: Across the high forest
- Length: 30.5 kilometres
- Uphill: 659 metres in altitude
- Pure journey time: 3 hours
- Difficulty: easy
Tour description
Some sections of the tour follow the route of the Malevil Marathon. After rolling in on a country road, the route leads over gentle meadow trails towards Polesí. A first trail descent leads into the fairytale land of rocks. The formations have names such as Snake Ridge or Hidden Wall. This is followed by the ascent to Popova skála (Pfaffenstein), which becomes very steep at the end. It is best to leave your bike below the summit and climb up the ladders to the rocky pulpit. The view is worth it! An exciting path continues past the Devil's Wall. After crossing the border, the route heads towards the high forest on German soil. Continue on a fun trail towards Lückendorf, followed by 250 metres of ascent to Hochwald (Hvozd). The panoramic mountain with two summit huts (refreshment stops) is well frequented on nice days. The paths lead along the border to Johannisstein, where you have a lovely view of the German castle of Oybin. At Krompach, cross the green border back to Hermanice.
Starting point: At the Malevil resort in Hermanice v Podjestedi (Czech Republic).
Highlights: 1. moody paths in the area of Popova skála. Ascent via ladders to the rock tower. 2. mystical rock formations on numerous sections of the route.
3. scenic passage between Hochwald and Johannisstein.
Key points: All paths and trails offer no major technical difficulties.
Retreat: Before the last descent, you pass the Kammweg inn near Krompach (district of Valy 114), with an outdoor seating area in a panoramic location. An ideal opportunity to try some Bohemian dumplings, as it's all downhill to the finish.
Tour 2: Cosy highlight
- Length: 47 kilometres
- Uphill: 1024 metres in altitude
- Pure travelling time: 5 hours
- Difficulty: medium
Tour description
The Lausche (793 m) is the highest point in the Lusatian Mountains. With its cone shape, it is reminiscent of its origins as a volcano. But there are even more highlights on this tour. For example, the millstone, five kilometres after the start in Cvikov. The rock gate in the middle of the forest has always fuelled legends in the region. The route then takes a loop through the westernmost corner of the Lusatian Mountains. There is a railway station in the middle of nowhere on Jedlová Mountain (refreshment stop). On the way to Finkenkoppe, the second highest mountain in the Lusatian Mountains, one path follows the next. But the ridge path is also strenuous! Passing old boundary stones, the route approaches the Lausche. On the last steep ramp to the summit, very few people stay in the saddle. The reward for the effort is a fantastic view and the serpentine descent to Myslivny (refreshment stop). The route continues on paths along the border. Only at the mysterious black Rabenstein does the route turn south again towards the destination. The last twelve kilometres roll easily to Cvikov.
Starting point: In the village square of Cvikov. The somewhat dreary village is located ten kilometres west of Hermanice on the main road to Nový Bor.
Highlights: 1. the rock gate at the millstone (Milštejn) once belonged to a castle complex. 2. long section of path over Finkenkoppe and Lausche.
Key points: The path to the Finkenkoppe is steep and partly overgrown (push). The last 100 metres to the summit of the Lausche are also steep. Short stretches on the border path between Myslivny and Dolní Svetlá.
Retreat: The pub at Jedlová railway station (km 13) and the Lužická Bouda (km 32).
Tour 3: Elephant stones
- Length: 35.3 kilometres
- Uphill: 600 metres in altitude
- Pure journey time: 3 hours
- Difficulty: easy
Tour description
The route leads to the eastern border of the Lusatian Mountains. There are huge white stones at the edge of the forest, reminiscent of the slickrocks in the US bike mecca of Moab. However, it is not possible to bike on them. The natural monument is also protected. After the start, you can warm up on the easy climb (country road) to Krompach. After three kilometres, a panoramic trail branches off to the right and crosses the southern flank of the high forest. You pass the village of Petrovice, then the path climbs again towards the mountains. Near Popova skála (Pfaffenstein), a trail leads into a mystical little valley flanked by bizarre rock towers. A strenuous section of trail soon begins, first steeply up to Rabennest, then undulating past further rock formations to the hamlet of Horní Sedlo (pass). The trail descends to the Elephant Stones on a winding forest path. It is worth exploring this unusual group of rocks on foot. The way back leads through typical Bohemian farming villages where time seems to have stood still.
Starting point: At the Malevil resort in Hermanice v Podjestedi (Czech Republic).
Highlights: 1. between kilometres 13 and 20 you pass numerous rock formations typical of the region. 2. the smoothly polished elephant stones look like foreign objects with their light colouring.
Key points: The start of the singletrail (descent) at kilometre 13.5 is steep and rooty. The path to the Rabennest is very steep but rideable uphill (kilometre 15). Otherwise, there are no technical difficulties on the tour.
Retreat: The settlement of Jítrava is somewhat unromantically situated on the main road 13, but you do pass a few nice inns there. For example the Pankrazer Hof with its own brewery (km 21).
The GPS data for the 3 best tours:
Information on the top MTB region of the Lusatian Mountains
Arrival
From the south and west of Germany via Hof (A72) or Erfurt (A4) to Chemnitz and Dresden. From the north (Berlin) on the A13 motorway. From the Dresden-West junction, take the A17 to Pirna. Continue along the Elbe (border) to Decin. From there, continue eastwards on the A13 (Nový Bor, Liberec) to Jablonné. Another four kilometres to Hermanice (Hermannsdorf). Distance from Munich 580 km, from Frankfurt 570 km, from Berlin 300 km.
Bike shop
Pakli Sport, Zdislavy z Lemberka 437, Jablonné v Podještedí. Radek Patrák's small shop sells the most important spare parts. And all the information about the Malevil Marathon. After all, Radek is the organiser of the race, www.paklisport.cz
Map
"Naturpark Zittauer Gebirge / Lausitzer Gebirge" (GPS-compatible and weatherproof), scale 1:33000, ISBN 978-3868430400. Tip: You can also find good Czech hiking maps on site, scale 1:25000.
Accommodation
The infrastructure in the Czech part of the Lusatian Mountains is comparatively sparse. There are a few private guesthouses or small hotels in the villages. A nice overview can be found at www.tschechische-gebirge.de
Our tip: Malevil Resort, Hermanice v Podjestedi 280, Jablonné v Podještedí. The golf resort is home to the marathon of the same name. Above-average standard for the region, delicious food and storage facilities for bikes, www.malevil.cz
What you must not miss
The Malevil Cup celebrates its anniversary in 2024
The iconic marathon in the Czech Republic is now a major international event and will be celebrating its 25th anniversary next year! Professional riders have long travelled here not only for the sensational trails on the route, but also for the UCI points that can be earned. There are 4 different long distances to choose from. Date: 1 June 2024, info: www.malevilcup.cz
Pump track Jablonné
Small but nice! In Jablonné v Podještedí, four kilometres south of Hermanice, the locals recently built a pump track. It goes without saying that local freeride star Vojtech Bláha was on hand with help and advice. The facility can be found in the north of Jablonné near the railway line. Information on Facebook under "Pumptrack Jablonné v Podještedí"
Jeschken Bike Park
If you look eastwards from the Lusatian Mountains, the Jeschken (Ješted) mountain, around 20 kilometres away as the crow flies, immediately catches your eye. Its 1012 metre-high summit is adorned with a television tower that looks like a giant pointed hat. A chairlift from the ski resort on the east side of the mountain is used for the bike park in summer. Freeriders will find a total of four trails with a total length of 5.8 kilometres. Of course, there are also some obstacles. The start is at the foot of the mountain in the town of Liberec. Info: www.skijested.cz
Liberec
Geographically, the largest town in the region is already part of the Jizera Mountains. Nevertheless, it is worth taking a stroll through the historic old town. Tips: Pizza at Maškovka (Mariánská 285), regional Bohemian cuisine at the Radnicní Sklípek restaurant (nám. Dr E. Beneše 1/1), live music at the Bedna Klub (Nad Školou 1675) or the Rock Klub Bunkr (Tržní námestí 1385/8). Relax in the historic Emperor Franz Joseph Baths (Oblastní galerie Liberec, Masarykova 723/14). Info: www.visitliberec.eu
The report: From the raven's nest to the land of the eagle owls
Perhaps he should have just prayed and skipped the few glasses of Becherovka. But his best mate, the cathedral's priest, had kept pouring more - and now it's here, the catastrophe! Radek throws his hands up theatrically. "It's all wet," he gasps, breathing heavily. Then the Czech ball lightning runs back and forth between the tents. What has happened? In the late afternoon, the skies over the Lusatian Mountains opened their floodgates and the Malevil Marathon festival site was ankle-deep in water within minutes. The chief organiser had worked so hard the day before the race. But obviously St Peter did not answer his prayers. However, the catastrophe was limited. The heavenly shower did nothing to dampen the spirits of the bikers. Quite the opposite. The party is in full swing. Technoid basses greet the last riders returning home from the 100-kilometre tour. White rows of teeth grin from dirt-smeared faces.
"It was great again," enthuses Dirk Leschke, who travelled from Erlangen with his brother Christian and girlfriend Andrea: "Great organisation from the Czechs, and top trails!" The statements sound like this or something similar across the board. "People still really ride mountain bikes here," interjects Thomas Aurich from Zschopau in Saxony. "No boring motorway biking like on many other marathons." I grab a beer and join the crowd. An exuberant evening takes its course.
Two days later, the same place. Early morning mist, birdsong, a cheesy sunrise, everything you need for a picture-book morning. Normality has returned to the Lusatian Mountains. Radek has suggested that I stay a few more days to go biking. He put me in touch with Vojtech Bláha, a young local who shook up the international freeride scene years ago, as the ultimate trail checker. You can't miss where he lives, says Radek, as he sends me on my way after breakfast. And indeed, a few kilometres further on, there is a single house on the country road in the middle of nowhere. "Ahoy," the nineteen-year-old curly-haired man greets me in the garage, where he is still tinkering with his bike.
"My name is Vojtech, but my friends just call me Vojta," he explains to me in his best English. Luckily, because I can't really get to grips with his national language. And that's despite the fact that there are quite a few words in Czech that are derived from German. Such as "ksicht" for face or "knedlik" for dumpling. "I live here, with my family, right at the foot of the mountains," says Vojtech, pointing over to the wooded hilltops of his district. It's no wonder that you become a passionate mountain biker in these surroundings. After all, I can't see any alternatives, such as succumbing to the temptations of consumer society, far and wide. A bird of prey circles above us, further back a farmer chugs across his field. We swing into the saddle and set course for the first trail. The plan: Vojta has arranged to meet his mate Jonas at Popova skála, or Pfaffenstein.
Special feature of the MTB area: the border runs over the main ridge
Jonas wants to cycle from Zittau in Germany to the meeting point, which is on the other side of the mountain range. This is one of the special features of the area: the German-Czech border runs right across the main ridge and divides the highest peaks of Lausche (Luz) and Hochwald (Hvozd). The other special feature is revealed when Vojta takes the turn-off into a mystical little valley. Dark, bizarre rock towers rise up to the left and right. Some narrow and fragile, some massive, others sloping and gravity-defying. They have strange names such as Land of the Eagle Owl, Devil's Wall, Raven's Nest or Lovers. Vojta is in his element downhill, and his rear wheel quickly disappears from my field of vision. But I can't help but stop to savour the sight. A few minutes later, the young Czech comes cranking back up the path. "Everything all right?" Vojta has to grin when he notices my astonished look. "Come on, we'll come across plenty more rock formations like this," he says, turns round and disappears again. The path soon heads uphill again. Fortunately, I can still keep up with the whirlwind on the way up.
As we emerge from the thicket at Popova skála, Jonas is already waiting for us. High five. There are no communication problems between the two freeriders. Jonas even speaks fluent Czech. "My mum is Czech," explains the bilingual Zittau native. We climb the rock tower via a steel ladder and enjoy the 360-degree panorama. Where else can you see an entire mountain range from one point? At least the northern half is considered the smallest low mountain range in Germany. The cone-shaped Lausche stands out in particular. The towns of Zittau and Liberec can be recognised in the foothills on either side. We work our way along the main ridge. White boundary stones indicate which territory we are currently on. Occasionally, however, there are also clearer warning signs around, shouting "Pozor" (Attention!) in red letters into the forest. In fact, the EU border is just a line on the map. Between Lückendorf and Oybin, we pass another rocky reef with gruesome names such as Satan's Head or Guillotine. It's a good thing that the Mönchsfelsen is nearby. At Johannisstein, the view opens up once again over the Oybin basin and castle. An ideal place for Jonas to say goodbye. While he rolls off the ridge towards Zittau, Vojta and I head south downhill. Practical, such a border mountain range.
On the last day, I drive to Jablonné to say goodbye to Radek. I find him behind his house. The greeting sounds familiar: "Big disaster!" He waves his arm theatrically over the chaos in the garden. Everything is lying all over the place, fixing materials, tools, barrier fences, signposts, benches and chairs. The big clean-up after the event. It's been 24 years since Radek started the marathon on a whim. A lot has changed since then, except for the chaos behind the scenes. Ahoy Radek, maybe next year the prayers will work out better.
