Florentin Vesenbeckh
· 08.02.2026
Correct adjustment is essential for a bicycle gear system to function properly. However, there are other stumbling blocks that can prevent smooth gear changes. The following tips and tricks will help you to ensure a smooth-running chain and clean gear changes. Universal for bicycle gears from Shimano, Sram or other suppliers.
If the chain is reluctant to climb onto the neighbouring sprocket or jumps in the process, this is usually due to insufficient tension in the shift cable. This can even be easily increased while riding using the adjustment screw on the gear lever. To do this, gradually unscrew the screw (in the direction of travel).
Shifting problems can also be caused by a heavily soiled cassette. If mud, grass or small branches have become lodged between the sprockets, they must be cleaned. Bent chain links can also be the cause of the chain jumping. In this case, the defective links must be replaced.
The gearstick is basically working, but you keep having to readjust it? It is quite possible that the shift cable is not screwed on tightly enough and is slipping. Realign the cable and tighten the fixing screw properly.
Is the chain slipping on the sprockets and rattling? Then it's high time to check the chain with a wear gauge and also subject the teeth of the sprockets to a quality check. Replace the chain in any case. If the problem still occurs, a new cassette and possibly a new chainring will probably be necessary. You can find out how to change the chain on the previous pages.
The gear lever is difficult to shift and the chain is reluctant to shift to the smaller sprocket? Then there is probably dirt or a kink in the shift cable housing. New cables and, in a second step, outer covers work wonders. If that doesn't help either, the rear derailleur spring may be worn out or defective. In this case, a new rear derailleur is usually required.
Does the chain hit the chainstay excessively on roots or cobblestones and does the shifting precision also decrease? This may indicate that the chain is too long. Shift the chain onto the small sprocket (in the case of double systems, onto the small chainring at the front). There should now be no less than two to three centimetres of space between the rear derailleur cage and the chain. Under no circumstances should the chain sag downwards. Also check whether the lever for the spring tension on Shimano rear derailleurs (Shadow+) is engaged.
Is the derailleur hanger, the derailleur cage or even the entire rear derailleur badly bent or broken? There is an emergency solution to avoid having to push your bike home. Open the broken chain and unthread it from the rear derailleur. Then cut it to length with a chain riveter so that it fits on a middle gear WITHOUT the rear derailleur. The chain then only runs over the chainring and sprocket! Lock the chain in this position. Caution: On fullys, be sure to block the shock or pump it up hard to prevent chain elongation during compression. It is best to remove the rear derailleur and put it in the rucksack. If the derailleur hanger is defective, it is best to always have a spare part with you!
A small mishap that can have major consequences. Because without tension on the cable, the rear derailleur drops into the hardest gear. A suitable shift cable in your luggage is therefore not a luxury. If necessary, you can try to jam a small stick in the parallelogram of the rear derailleur cage, for example, to get into a suitable gear that will at least allow you to crank home again.
With a bent derailleur hanger, the gear change no longer works as it should. When bending the derailleur hanger, you need to use your instincts. If the rear derailleur is crooked after a fall or being caught on a branch, the derailleur hanger is often bent. For emergency repairs, insert a 5 mm Allen key into the screw that secures the rear derailleur and use it as a lever. At the same time, carefully push or pull on the rear derailleur with the other hand to align it.

Editor CvD