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A mountain bike must not only function well, but also look good. That's why most bike manufacturers now hide the cables and hoses inside the frame. However, the clean look comes at a price. Hardly any other development has required more patience from mechanics worldwide than the triumph of system integration. Sooner or later, the rear brake on almost every bike has to be replaced or a shift cable replaced. For example, if dirt has penetrated the system and the shifting quality suffers as a result. This is when system and creativity are required to avoid working through tiny openings.
One trend that is becoming increasingly popular is cable routing through the headset. This means that all brake, gear and dropper post cables are routed through the actual headset bearing into the frame. This is both a blessing and a curse. Frame manufacturers do not have to construct additional holes in the frame and can build light and stiff at the same time without additional effort. However, mechanics not only have more work with the eye of the needle, but also have to open all the lines to replace the bearings, thread them into the spare part and readjust or bleed them.
Tips for stress-free train installation
To ensure that changing cables does not become a test of patience, bikers should be aware of where and how the parts are installed. Sometimes they are clamped at certain points using cable ties or clamps. Remember: Never lose small parts in the frame! Bikers who want to save themselves stress when screwing things together should look for a continuous laminated cable guide when buying a frame.
Before you simply pull the old cables out of the frame, you should consider whether they can help you guide the new ones. For example, if you only want to replace the inner cable of your mechanical derailleur, the outer cable - provided it is still in good condition - can remain in the frame and the cable can simply be pushed through. In many cases, however, the principle also works the other way round. An old inner cable can be used to push over a new outer cable and can then be easily replaced. Depending on the cable routing, a brake line can also take on the "guide role". This is the case if the new cable can be attached to the old one using a special connector or, in some cases, a piece of sturdy adhesive tape. As a rule, pulling is easier than pushing.
Hide and seek
Large openings in the chassis simplify cable routing, especially if there is no existing cable to help. On most frames, the covers of the cable outlets can be removed to provide more space for threading the cables through. Just don't forget to put them back! Some bikes have special service flaps or access through the down tube storage compartment or battery compartment. However, the crank and bottom bracket often have to be removed for accessibility.
On some full-suspension bikes, it is advisable to remove the shock on one side to gain space for the transition between the main frame and the rear triangle. The direction can also be decisive. It is often easier to guide the shock from the front to the rear. If there is a snag when threading through, but the cause is not clear, the backlight of a torch and the movement of the cable can help to see its end through an opening. In extreme cases, it may be worth buying a small mobile phone endoscope camera (from 15 euros).
Fine tuning
The length of the cables should be chosen so that the cockpit can be turned in both directions without any problems. Markings can be made with a light-coloured marker or adhesive tape. Ideally, cables should be laid in large radii in order to run smoothly. However, too large a radius increases the risk of rattling and snagging. Caution: Only shorten outer sheaths if there is no inner cable in them. In addition, always use a sharp cable cutter to avoid crushing the cut. If necessary, this can be bent back into shape using manual force and a two-way Allen key.
Made it? Great! Now just don't let the cables snap back and temporarily secure them with adhesive tape for further work on the bike. Don't forget the end caps when reassembling and protect the cables from untwisting with a crimp sleeve. Cables, wires and cables can be sorted and put together using special plastic clips, small cable ties or black insulating tape. Particularly stylish: a shrink sleeve that can be wrapped around several cables using a hot air dryer.
It works with these little helpers
Wire sling
A piece of wire or an old spoke can be bent into shape in just a few simple steps to transport cables out of the inside of the frame. Tip: Push the end of the cable just before the opening, then insert the loop and use it to "fish" the cable out. Unbeatably cheap as a home remedy.
Park Tool IR-1.3 Professional tool
Any internal cable routing can be cracked with this set. Various cables with magnetic, screw, plug and clamp connections guide the cables through the chassis. At 103 euros ( >> available here) painfully expensive, but worthwhile for hardship cases and frequent screwdrivers.
Cable connector
This small, inconspicuous part can be used to connect hydraulic lines in order to pull them through the frame. Simply screw in a line at both ends, pull through, remove, done. e.g. Rockshox Reverb Stealth Barb Connector, 4 euros >> available here.
Hoover
Light inner pulls, liners or even a woollen thread can sometimes be pulled out of the chassis using negative pressure, for example with a hoover. However, the corresponding frame opening must be large and the appliance must be strong. Then use as a guide aid.
Preventer
To avoid chafe marks in the paintwork - especially when cables run in a tight radius or move - rubber parts such as the Jagwire 5G (4 pieces for 7,50 Euro). Alternatively, a protective film can be affixed to the frame.
Rattle-free
Without integrated guides, cables tend to rattle in the frame. A so-called "liner" made of foam can provide a remedy (e.g. Capgo OL, 12 Euro), which is placed over the pipe and goes inside the frame.
Jan Timmermann
Editor
