Mountain bike season start part 2: The spring check on the bike

You have already completed part 1 of the pre-season preparation and the whole bike is shiny and clean in front of you, now it's time for the all-round check. Defective or worn components are much easier to detect when the bike is clean. To ensure that you can start the first tour of the season safely, you should thoroughly check all relevant parts.

>> Start of the season part 1: Spring cleaning not yet done? Then click here for our ultimate cleaning guide.

>> Start of the season part 3: Have you already successfully completed the bike check? Now it's the turn of your accessories.

1 Check tyres & wheels

We start with the wheels. The main focus here is on whether the tyres still have sufficient tread and the rubber is not too brittle. But inner tubes and tubeless systems also need a little inspection, as do the wheels themselves.

• TyresAre the tyres worn or even brittle? Then get rid of them! It's not just the wear on the studs that matters, but also the rubber - which unfortunately simply loses performance over time - and therefore grip.

• HoseBefore re-pressurising the thin rubber, a visual inspection is recommended. The vulcanised valve stem must be free of chafing and cracks. When the inner tube is inflated, the valve must look vertically out of the rim hole and be able to move slightly to the left and right. If you have to replace a defective inner tube anyway, now would be a favourable opportunity, to switch to tubeless.
• Sealing milkIn tubeless tyres, sealing milk turns into thick milk after a long service life. It sticks tenaciously in the tyre and on the tread and loses its creeping properties. The caked-on stuff must be completely removed before fresh sealant is filled into the tyre. Remember: Do not mix different tyre brands. If you don't want to pull the tyre off the rim, we recommend the Tubeless kit from Milkit (>> e.g. available here). This allows the fill level of the sealing milk to be measured via the valve.

• ValveResidues of sealing milk can also stick to the valve, especially if it has been on the ground during the parking period. Unscrew the valve insert from the stem and remove any residue.
• Bearing clearanceThe bearing play in the wheels can be checked by pushing and pulling the wheel against the fork blades or rear stays. You should not be able to feel any tilting in the hub. Older conical bearings can be adjusted; the non-adjustable deep groove ball bearings of current wheels can be replaced by a specialist workshop - unless you have the right tools yourself.
• Concentricity: With a spacer like the one in the picture, you can check the concentricity of the rims with a steady hand and a sharp eye. The best way to do this is to hang your bike on the assembly stand so that the wheels can rotate freely.

• SpokesCorrect spoke tension determines the concentricity of the wheels. Radially spoked wheels can be tested by tapping them with a pin - all spokes should produce the same sound. Crossed spokes are pressed in pairs, they should yield evenly. Centring is demandingIf you are not experienced, it is better to leave this to a specialist workshop.
• Check air pressureAfter a long period of standing, the tyres have usually lost at least some of their air. So before you hit the trails, it's time to get your tyres pumped. The ideal air pressure depends on many factors - tyre choice, area of use, rider weight, tubeless or inner tube. The recommended range is between 1.3 and 2.4 bar. Ideally, you should have noted down your ideal tyre pressure. If you want to know exactly, you can find all the important information about air pressure here.

2. check brakes for function and wear

The brakes are absolutely crucial to safety when cycling and should therefore be checked regularly. Pressure point, pad wear or brake disc thickness? We'll show you what's important.

• Pressure pointThe pressure point on the brake lever should be applied early and then harden evenly and in a defined manner. If the lever feels spongy, moves a long way towards the handlebars or only builds up pressure late, there may be air in the system or the pads are worn. A precise pressure point indicates that the system is in order. DOT brake fluid should be changed every two years; this is not necessary with mineral oil-based brake fluid.

• Disc brake padThe condition of the coverings can be assessed from the outside in good light. Sufficient lining (at least 1 mm) must be visible on the backing plate. With the pads removed, this can be measured precisely; at the same time, foreign bodies such as metal shavings can be removed to prevent scoring on the brake disc.

• Brake callipersAfter riding off-road or in the rain, dirt accumulates in the brake calliper, which impairs braking performance, accelerates wear or causes squeaking. The gentlest way to clean is with a cloth or compressed air. Avoiding brake cleaner containing solvents preserves the lubricating film on the pistons and protects the rubber seals.

• Brake discIf you mainly ride on flat terrain and don't brake much, disc wear is not an issue. However, if you ride a lot of metres downhill, you should routinely check with a caliper gauge and fit new brake discs when the minimum thickness - indicated on each disc - is reached. In the case of this brake disc model, this is 1.55 millimetres.

• ConcentricityLateral run-out in the brake disc is caused, for example, by continuous braking on a long downhill ride, especially if the disc is already thinly braked. With a little skill and the right alignment tool, rough impacts can be bent back until the disc no longer rubs against the pads.

3. drive: function and wear

• Visual inspectionThe wear of the chain can be recognised relatively easily by pulling it radially away from the large chainring. If it sits tightly on the teeth and slides back again when you let go, it is OK. With increasing wear, however, the chain elongates and can then be pulled further and further away from the chainring. If the gap is so large that two adjacent teeth are almost completely visible, the chain and, if necessary, the cassette or chainrings should be replaced.
• Measurement: With a Chain gauge chain wear can be measured precisely. It uses sensors to check the increase in length of a bicycle chain caused by wear on pins and plates. The gauge indicates when the tolerance has been exceeded, usually by the sensor falling completely into the chain when the chain is correspondingly elongated. In this case, the chain should be replaced.

• Pinion wearIn heavily used drivetrains, wear often first appears on the teeth of sprockets and chainrings. If they lose their original shape and become asymmetrical or visibly sharper (similar to a shark's tooth), the risk of the chain jumping increases. It is therefore advisable to check the condition regularly; depending on the degree of wear, you must decide whether the cassette, chainrings or chain should be replaced individually or whether it makes sense to replace the entire drivetrain. You may also want to switch to chain wax at the same time. Find out the benefits of chain wax and how it works here.

• Pedal checkClicking in and out of the pedal is a routine process that requires hardly any attention. Nevertheless, you should check the release hardness after longer periods of standing and, if necessary, adjust it a little softer for the first ride so that the first stop does not end in a stable lateral position on the ground. You should also clean the pedals and cleats with water and a brush and check that the bolts are tight. If the cleats have noticeable play in the binding, you should replace them. A splash of silicone spray can help prevent squeaking. It is also worth taking this opportunity to check that the pedals are firmly seated in the crank arm and that there is no play in the bearings on the pedal axle.

4. maintain circuit

• Check battery statusIf you have connected your derailleur to the corresponding app, you can check the battery status of the components here. There is a button cell (CR2032) in both the Sram and Shimano shifters for the wireless connection to the derailleur. The compartment can be opened with a coin and the battery easily replaced. The rear derailleur batteries are placed in the charging tray once and receive a full charge of juice from the socket. The same applies to the batteries on electronic telescopic supports or electric bikes.

• Check end stopPrecisely adjusted end stops are important. They limit the swivelling range of the rear derailleur and front derailleur between the smallest and largest sprocket. This ensures that the chain does not rattle and cannot jump off. The setting of the end stops should be checked and adjusted at the latest when replacing components in the drivetrain. be adjusted if necessary. The same principle applies for electronic Shimano Di2 drivetrains as for mechanical drivetrains. Sram transmission rear derailleurs do not have an adjustable limit stop; their position is fixed via the direct mount. We explain how the setting works with Sram Transmission here.

• Lubricate rear derailleurIf you haven't put your mountain bike into hibernation well oiled anyway, you should drip a few drops of oil onto the joints of the rear derailleur and front derailleur now at the latest. Shift through all gears several times so that the lubricant gets everywhere.

5. suspension - check fork and damper

• Cleaning and lubricatingIf nothing is leaking or oily on the fork and damper, it is sufficient to clean the stanchions with a lint-free cloth. Special fork deodorants or too much lubrication from the outside can also be counterproductive, as this increases the amount of dirt carried to the wipers. You can also turn your bike upside down for a few minutes to re-wet the seals with oil after a long period of disuse.

• Air pressure: It is also worth taking a look at the correct air pressure on the suspension elements. Simply use the Damper pump and check the pressure - in the best case you have noted it down somewhere - you may need to top up the pressure. If your suspension is no longer optimally adjusted after the long winter break, we show you here how to find the optimum suspension set-up.

• Check the settings: If you have not adjusted the rebound and compression damping over the winter, the settings can remain as they are. Here too, it is worth writing down your optimum setup. The best way to do this is to count the clicks starting from the closed state of the rebound or compression damping.

6. battery and motor on the e-bike

You should fully recharge your e-bike battery once before your first ride, as you will have stored it at around 40 to 60 per cent charge over the winter and recharged it regularly. If your remote is not connected to the main battery, it may also need a new battery or want to be connected to the USB plug.

Clean battery contacts: You can also use this opportunity to check the battery contacts for dirt or corrosion. You can use a dry or slightly damp cloth for cleaning. For heavier soiling, cotton buds and a little isopropanol will help. A contact spray helps against corrosion and applies a light protective film to the contacts. Please do not use normal oil, sandpaper or metal brushes.

Battery full? Then start the motor and connect to the app. Here you can see whether a new firmware update is available for your drive. Everything done? Then off to the yard for a short test ride.

7. safety and optics

• The right torque: This is one of the most important steps of all. The clamps on the cockpit or seat post are safety-relevant and must be checked regularly and tightened with the appropriate tools. Torque spanner can be fitted. To do this, loosen the screws slightly and tighten them again to the correct torque (usually printed on the component).

• HandlesYes, the handlebar grips also deserve a look, because after many hours of off-road riding and thousands of metres of downhill riding, their profile has often worn down so much that they hardly offer any grip and damping. Fortunately, grips are not really expensive. Good ergonomic models are available from as little as 34 euros.

Everything you need to know about handles can be found here.

• Seat post: A seized seat post in the seat tube can turn a beautiful bike into a total loss. Carbon seat posts in aluminium or steel frames can also be affected. To prevent this, it is advisable to pull the seat post out of the seat tube regularly, even during the season (after riding in the rain), to check the lubrication. Classic assembly grease is recommended for metal, while special assembly pastes are available for carbon, both for the metal-carbon and carbon-carbon combination. Here we explain which lubricant is best suited for which application.

Your bike should now be optimally prepared for the upcoming season. Now it's your accessories' turn. In the next article, you'll find out everything you need to know about caring for bike clothing and accessories. And then? You can finally get out on the trails.

>> Start of the season part 1: Spring cleaning not yet done? Then click here for our ultimate cleaning guide.

>> Start of the season part 3: Have you already successfully completed the bike check? Now it's the turn of your accessories.