The 10 most common bike breakdowns: Quick help for your mountain bike
Even on bumpy trails, modern bikes can forgive many a riding error without literally running out of air. Nevertheless, you should be prepared for all eventualities on longer tours. Mobile phone, multitool, spare inner tube, first-aid kit and pump should always be in your rucksack or hip bag. With cable ties, pliers and gaffer tape, you can also help yourself out of trouble with larger defects. You can find out exactly how to do this here.
The basis: stay cool!
- People before material! If the breakdown is associated with a serious fall, the bike is of secondary importance for the time being. Take a deep breath. Treat injuries if necessary. Then it's the bike's turn.
- Stay calm, be creative: On tour, it's not about getting the bike in perfect condition. The aim is to get the bike halfway rideable. Anything that helps is allowed. It's better to think calmly than to start screwing frantically. For tricky breakdowns, tips from the Internet can provide smart solutions.
- Teamwork: Exchange tools, tips and emergency repair utensils within the group. This makes many things easier and quicker.
- Be prepared: Breakdowns can happen on any tour. Basic wrenching skills should be as much a matter of course as cycling after a tour.
1. the classic: flat tyre
The absolutely puncture-proof tyre remains a pipe dream for the time being. Patching and changing tyres are therefore mandatory exercises for touring bikers that everyone should be able to do blindfolded. This saves frustration and time - guaranteed. A spare inner tube, mini pump and repair kit are therefore part of the standard equipment. Once all the spare inner tubes and repair kit have been used up, cut the inner tube at the puncture, tie it together, place it on the rim and pump it up again. If the inner tube is completely ruined, the only thing to do is to stuff the tyre with greenery and carefully roll it home. Important: Don't forget the rim magnet for e-bikes.
2. tubeless flat
Tubeless milk reliably seals small cuts in the tyre. For larger defects, you will need to use a tool to help. First, align the defective area in the tyre downwards so that the sealing milk reaches the hole well. For medium-sized defects, a tubeless repair kit like the tried and tested Maxalami Twister here. The sealing sausages also help the tubeless milk to plug larger holes. The only thing that helps with serious damage is to retract the inner tube.
3. jacket defective
Sharp-edged rocks have slashed the tyre. Even if the inner tube is still intact, the tyre must be repaired, otherwise the next puncture is inevitable. Remove the tyre from the rim and tape it from the inside with the most robust fabric tape possible. If necessary, flexible plastic parts (e.g. from packaging or, depending on the position of the slit, a piece of sturdy cardboard) are also suitable. It is important that the slit no longer gapes open when the hose is inflated. If the slit is on the side walls, you can also try to sew it up with a needle and thread from an emergency repair kit. However, this only works on the sidewall of the tyre. The thread must be knotted tightly at the end.
4th spoke broken
A cracked spoke is not the end of the world. Nevertheless, it should be repaired in a makeshift manner, as it can puncture a hole in the tube and scratch the frame or fork. Wrap the spoke part that is connected to the hub as tightly as possible around the neighbouring spoke if it cannot be removed. This way, nothing can dangle around and drag. The part that is in the rim can be fixed in place with the same trick. Even better: loosen the connection between the spoke and spoke nipple and remove the complete spoke half and stow it in your rucksack. If necessary, re-centre the other spokes slightly to compensate for the impact. If you have a spare spoke with you, remove the tyre and insert the new spoke.
5. figure of eight in the wheel
A massive crash, or the wheel has become wedged between rocks and is so deformed that it no longer fits through the frame or fork without rubbing. A little re-centring of the spokes is not enough. Now only courageous action will help. Locate the point of the strongest bend. Now place the rim on a tree stump or kerb at the point of greatest deformation. The rim should protrude slightly to the left and right of the bend. Now step onto the rim with both feet a little to the left and right of the defective area and bend the rim halfway straight again with measured swinging movements or small jumps. ATTENTION: This trick is only suitable for aluminium rims!
6. brake grinding
How often have you experienced this problem yourself or with your companions? This annoying problem can be solved quickly with a few tricks. Often the brake pistons are just too close to the disc: Remove the wheel and press the pads apart with a flat, non-sharp-edged tool. If the disc is only rubbing on one side, it is usually due to the brake calliper: In this case, loosen the two fastening screws on the calliper, pull the brake when it is released, then tighten the screws again with the brake applied. If the brake disc grinds alternately on the left and right, it is bent. To straighten it again, bend it by hand using gentle pressure movements. Your hands should be free of grease. Wearing gloves also helps. ATTENTION: After the descent, the brake is extremely hot and should first cool down sufficiently. Risk of burns!
7. telescopic support defective
The Tele prop no longer works or no longer moves upwards. This is often due to a kink in the cable. This can also occur if the support is mounted in a different position and the cable comes under a lot of tension as a result.
To reactivate the function, loosen the seat clamp and slide the seat post up and down the seat tube. The cable housing must be pushed down where it enters the frame. If the telescopic seat post can be lowered but can no longer be extended remotely, there is probably air in the cartridge. Solution: Turn the bike upside down, press the remote lever on the handlebars and retract the dropper post with your hand on the bottom bracket. Turn the bike over again to extend the support. Repeat several times if necessary.
8. chain defective or broken
The chain does not move to the next sprocket or makes unpleasant noises when changing gear. If the cause is a defective chain link, this can be remedied in a few simple steps. The quickest solution: Remove the chain from the chainring to take the tension out of the chain. Use the chain tool on the minitool to remove the defective outer link and insert a replacement chain link. If you do not have a replacement lock to hand, remove the defective chain link completely.
CAUTION: Do not push the rivet pin out completely. It should protrude slightly into the link plate. This allows it to be easily pushed back into the link joint when riveting the chain together. To do this, position the rivet on the opposite side.
9. gearstick ticks
The chain clatters and is reluctant to shift from one sprocket to the next or even skips gears. In most cases, the tension is not set correctly. If the chain does not climb upwards when shifting into an easier gear, turn the adjusting wheel on the gear lever half a turn in the direction of travel until the gear changes run smoothly again. If there are problems shifting into a heavier gear, turn the wheel against the direction of travel. If the shift cable is broken, it is no longer possible to change gear. To fix a middle gear, screw in the lower stop screw on the rear derailleur completely. Alternative: insert a replacement shift cable.
10. derailleur hanger bent
With a bent derailleur hanger, the gear change no longer works as it should. When bending the derailleur hanger back to its original position, you need to use your instincts. If the rear derailleur is crooked after a fall or being caught on a branch, the derailleur hanger is often bent. For an emergency repair, insert a 5 mm Allen key into the screw that secures the rear derailleur and carefully press on the rear derailleur with the other hand to align it. If the derailleur hanger is broken off or the rear derailleur is destroyed, there is only one thing to do: remove the rear derailleur, shorten the chain, select a gear with the straightest possible chain line and rivet the chain together. ATTENTION: If possible, block the suspension on fullys. Otherwise the frame, hub or cassette may be damaged.
BIKE conclusion
Especially on long tours, it is important to always have the right tools with you. With a multitool, pump & inner tube, tyre levers, some adhesive tape and cable ties, even many a cyclist crossing the Alps has made it to the stage finish. Anything that helps is allowed. On tour, it's not about getting the bike in perfect condition, but somehow getting there, and with our tips, most people have managed to do that. - Adrian Kaether, Editor Test & Technology
Adrian Kaether
Editor
