Baroque and concrete, art and creams, modernity and socialism: Bratislava is a kaleidoscope of contrasts. On cycle tours in the Slovakian capital between magnificent palaces and prefabricated buildings, our authors discover how history and the present merge.
"We could have taken the boat as an alternative," says Alex, laughing as we get off the REX 6. Petržalka station welcomes us with a panoramic view of concrete. We are standing in the middle of the largest prefabricated housing estate in Europe. It's just before nine o'clock, the first clouds are gathering in the sky, an energising morning. Bratislava welcomes us with a light breeze that smells of the Danube, concrete and adventure. As always, our bikes are ready and waiting. All we have to do is fasten the panniers and we're off in the direction of the old town to our accommodation. We've just come from Vienna, where we've spent the last few days immersed in imperial history and coffee house culture. But now we want something different: Bratislava, this small, sometimes overlooked capital city with its nooks, crannies and hidden beauties. Our accommodation, the AC Hotel Old Town, is pleasantly modern, centrally located and not far from the historic centre. "The room is already ready," says the receptionist kindly. Jackpot. Luggage in, helmet on, camera at the ready. The city wants to be explored.
Day 1: Between concrete and baroque
"What kind of building is that?" I ask after less than five minutes on the bike, pointing to a hulking concrete block. "That's the Slovakian broadcasting centre," Alex replies, raising his eyebrows. The inverted pyramid is brutalism in its purest form. We start with a short journey through the city's recent history. A little later, we are standing on Freedom Square. Here, Bratislava looks as if a communist architectural encyclopaedia has been exploded. We drive on past the Nova Tržnica market hall, the so-called Centre Pompidou of the East. Steel, glass, concrete. Grey in grey. And then, just a few pedal strokes further on, the stark contrast. The old town welcomes us with cobblestones, winding alleyways and the smell of coffee and sweet pastries. Alex suddenly stops in front of Café Mayer. "Maria Theresa is said to have celebrated here after her coronation," he says. We lean the bikes against a wall and continue on foot. We want to walk the coronation path once, but then we laugh out loud: We have just met the elegant, handsome Naci at the café, and now Cumil, the famous bronze figure, half man, half city secret, is peering out of a manhole cover at us. Bratislava loves its sculptures. They are proof that not everything here is as serious as it seems at first glance.
Day 2: Coronation and sound
"It's going to be sporty today. Short and crisp, please," says Alex, pointing to the hill in front of us. Our destination: Bratislava Castle, the symbol of Bratislava. The tarmac road is steeper than I expected, and I feel my thigh after the first minute. "Just up the hill," I gasp. But by the time we reach the top, everything is forgotten. The city lies before us, the Danube glistens and the white façade of the castle tries to defy the grey clouds with its radiance.
We explore the garden and grounds before slowly rolling back down towards St Martin's Cathedral, where Hungarian kings were crowned between 1563 and 1830. "A little reverence, please," I whisper jokingly as we lock up the bikes and enter the church. Coincidentally, or perfectly timed by fate, a choir rehearsal is about to begin. The voices echo through the vaulted ceiling, stretching into the far corners of the chapel. We stand there as if time has stood still. I close my eyes. For a moment, I feel transported back in time. The evening brings us back to the here and now. A little wine tasting in a cellar bar in the old town centre is on the agenda. Our host explains where each wine comes from: Sometimes from Svätý Jur, sometimes from Modra. Places whose names we have never heard before. They are all located in the Little Carpathians, a wine-growing region neighbouring the city. First comes the Riesling, then the rose and with it a broad smile on my face. Alex asks what's going on. "It smells like the bush with the dark currants in my grandparents' garden," I say and dream myself back to the good old days. The day ends with a warm buzz for us and Slovakian sounds from the neighbouring house.
Day 3: Art and cream slice
What was yesterday's height is today's length. We cycle 20 kilometres out of the city, always along the embankment of the Danube, to the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum. "I hope it's worth it," says Alex as we start pedalling. The well-maintained cycle path is pleasantly flat, but the wind from the front is getting to us. The river rarely shows itself, hidden behind trees and embankments. But then, after just under an hour, we reach it: the futuristic building on the peninsula. And yes, it's worth it. The museum is a real insider tip. Inside, works by Slovakian and international artists await us; outside, sculptures that rival the sky. We literally climb onto the roof of art. A strong wind blows up here, but the view of the Danube and the objects on the site are breathtaking. Back in the city, we round off the day and our visit to Bratislava with a culinary highlight. We stop off at the Pasteleria. "This place is supposed to have the best creams in town," I say and pull Alex into an inconspicuous courtyard in Panská Street. The small café is hard to find, but when we finally stand in front of it, a young couple greet us with smiles and fragrant coffee. The legendary cream cake is delicate, sweet and light. Pudding, cream, puff pastry and a hint of chocolate. "A bit like heaven on earth," says Alex, who had actually fancied the cheesecake. I nod and am delighted with this perfect ending.
Farewell with melancholy
Bratislava surprised us. It is not a city that imposes itself. Rather, it whispers, reveals itself in parts, allows itself to be discovered. We saw and experienced a lot in three days: baroque old town, socialist monumental buildings, modern art and honest, hearty cuisine. You are free on a bike. Free to let yourself drift. There isn't really a network of paths in the centre. Sometimes a cycle path starts out of nowhere, but then ends the same way. But that doesn't matter. Then you get off, laugh, push, look around. The city doesn't want to be perfect. It wants to be real. And that's exactly what makes it so special.
3 tour tips for Bratislava
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Tour 1: Bratislava city tour (12 km, flat)
Start at the Maximilian Fountain in the Old Town. The route first takes you to the impressive Brutalist buildings from the socialist era, whose angular shapes provide an exciting contrast to the historic old town. The route then leads up to Bratislava Castle with panoramic views over the Danube and the city. From here, you drive to St Martin's Cathedral, which was once the coronation church of Hungarian kings. The tour ends with a ride along the Danube promenade before returning to the heart of the old town. ATTENTION: A carrying passage for the bike is included in the tour.
Tour 2: Along the Danube riverside path to Devín (25 km, flat)
The starting point is once again the Maximilian Fountain. Via the Botanical Gardens, the route leads leisurely along the banks of the Danube to the impressive Devín Castle, where the Danube and Morava rivers meet. A place steeped in history with spectacular views. After a tour of the historic estate, the route takes you back to the old town centre along the same route.
Tour 3: Bratsilava - Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum (42 km, flat)
The third tour also starts at the Maximilian Fountain. You leave the city heading south over the Danube bridge. You cycle through the wide Danube meadows and enjoy the open countryside. The intermediate destination is the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum, a modern art centre on a peninsula in the Danube. After visiting the museum, garden and café, the return journey follows the same route to the old town centre.
Info for travelling to Bratislava
Travelling from Berlin
Best time to travel
April to June: Pleasant temperatures, parks in bloom, fewer tourists/tourist groups September to October: Mild autumn days, often golden light, ideal weather conditions for cycling
Worth seeing
- Bratislava Castle: Landmark above the Danube, great view over the entire city, in good weather you can see as far as Austria
- Old Town (Staré Mesto): Cobblestone alleyways, historic buildings, cosy cafés
- UFO viewing platform: at the SNP bridge, futuristic architecture with panoramic views
- St Martin's Cathedral: Gothic cathedral from the 15th century, coronation church of the Hungarian kings and a queen
- Danube promenade: Relaxed ambience, perfect for walks and short bike rides
Bike hire
- BikeBratislava: City and e-bike hire by the hour or day, www.bikebratislava.sk
- Slovnaft BAjk: Station-based hire system (hop on/hop off), special offer for tourists for 2-day use, www.slovnaftbajk.sk
- Rekola Bikesharing: 30 minutes: 1.35 euros, www.rekola.sk
Overnight stay
Our tip: AC Hotel Bratislava Old Town, Vysoká 2/A, 81106 Bratislava, Slovakia
Info / Travel guide
- Official tourism portal: www.visitbratislava.com
- Official tourism platform for the city and surrounding area, offers current event tips: www.bratislava.travel
Food / Drink
- Pasteleria: Panská 246, 81101 Bratislava
The café is located in a quiet backyard and is a real discovery. Delicious coffee and the best homemade cakes in town
Tip: Cream slice & cheesecake with caramel - Restaurant ParliamentNámestie Alexandra Dubčeka 1, 81101 Staré Mesto
The restaurant offers a panoramic view of the Danube and the castle. It is known for modern Slovak cuisine - Modrá Hviezda: Beblavého 292/14, 81101 Staré Mesto-Hrad
Well-known restaurant in a historic setting under the castle with hearty Slovakian cuisine
Organised cycle tours / package tours
- Authentic Slovakia: Guided city tours and excursions into the surrounding area, www.authenticslovakia.com
- Eurobike: Offer of various multi-day tours in the region, www.eurobike.at
- Cycle path journeys: Offer of combined cycle and river tours along the Danube. www.radweg-reisen.com
