Short trip to Alsace: Two sporty cycle tours in the Northern Vosges Mountains

Mmmmh. The delicious Pinot Gris from Alsace! It goes perfectly with the pâté and the hearty Alsatian roast veal that we are served in the Velleda mountain restaurant, a few metres below the summit of the Donon. If, like my fellow cyclist Martin and I, you like to combine good food with sporty cycling, the Vallée de la Bruche in the Vosges is just the place for you. We just have to be very careful that we don't put on any more weight after two days of cycling than we did before.

It's reassuring to know that we already have a few kilometres under our belts: The ascent to the summit of the Donon is challenging. After all, the mountain route leads to an impressive 1,009 metres above sea level. Admittedly, that may not be much, but the Donon is the highest mountain in the Northern Vosges. And it's not just a hill: at the top, the replica of a Celtic temple attracts many visitors. It is said that the native Gauls worshipped the mountain god Vosegus on the summit of the Donon - and this is where the name for the entire Vosges mountain range comes from.

A mountain road with little traffic leads uphill through dense coniferous forests. After reaching the pass, we turn off onto a forest track to the summit. We have to push a few metres. The pass is around 300 metres lower down. The practical thing is that we can simply roll downhill into the Vallée de la Bruche with full bellies - the Gugelhupf ice cream with Gewürztraminer marc schnapps also fits in.

We are in the mountains, and the most beautiful things are not at the bottom, but at the top. - Simone Leininger, Schirmeck Tourist Office

The wild mountain river Bruche meanders below the slopes of the Vosges. The river valley is the longest in the French low mountain range and forms the border between the Northern Vosges and the Central Vosges. An idyllic river cycle path follows the course of the Bruche - but not, as is usually the case, along flat riverside paths. The route runs along old connecting paths between the villages and makes for a varied ride.

However, there are also some inclines, so the word "upstream" takes on a completely different meaning here. In the Vallée de la Bruche, there are only comparatively short sections of flat paths. Simone Leininger from the tourist office in Schirmeck, the main town in the Bruche Valley, is an enthusiastic promoter of cycling holidays. She has explored numerous cycle paths around Schirmeck and the other villages in the Bruche Valley and provides descriptions in German, tracks to follow and maps. The landscape is breathtakingly beautiful, but most of the routes are steep. However, as many visitors are travelling with e-bikes, this is not a problem.

Quiet villages, high pastures, cosy passes

We are not travelling with a motor. There's only one thing for us to do: pedal hard. A mountain stage is also planned for the next day: opposite the Donon, on the other side of the valley, up to the Champ du Feu, the highest point in the Middle Vosges at 1,099 metres. The excursion is definitely worthwhile, and not just from a sporting point of view. Above the long valley are quiet villages, wild high pastures and lonely mountain passes - as well as numerous idyllic mountain inns, the Fermes-Auberges. These serve Alsatian culinary specialities, but in a hearty farmhouse style. One example of this is the Ferme-Auberge du Bambois run by Isabelle and Walter Huber, which is located right on the side of the road later in the day. The menu includes smoked ham, roast veal with spaetzle and tarte flambée. Of course, the strong mountain cheeses from Isabelle's brother's farm are also a must.

Everything is very simple and rustic, but nevertheless delicious and home-made. Simone explains that the special thing about Alsatian mountain farms is that 70 per cent of the products sold have to be produced on site. There are no frills, but that's exactly why everything tastes so good.

Two cycle tours in the Northern Vosges

Tour 1: Around Schirmeck

53 kilometres, 1,130 metres in altitude, 16 % maximum gradient

Off you go to the Champ du Feu, the highest point in the Middle Vosges at an altitude of 1,099 metres! This beautiful route leads through the heights of the Bruche Valley and after 43 kilometres to the Ferme-Auberge du Bambois, where you can enjoy delicious Vosges cuisine. Don't miss a stop at the memorial site of the former Struthof concentration camp, which is located near the summit.

Tour 2: Up the Donon!

43 kilometres, 1,000 metres in altitude, 19 % maximum gradient

The Donon can be recognised from afar. Is that probably why the Gauls declared it a place of worship? You might be able to find out on the mountainous route through the beautiful forests of the Donon region. For the most part, the route leads along tarmac, quiet side roads with little gravel. The descent to Schirmeck is somewhat busier, but can be travelled downhill without stress.

GPS data

You can download the GPX track for the tours in the Vosges download here for free or find them in the MYBIKE Collection on komoot

Information about the cycle tours in the Northern Vosges

The Vosges are a low mountain range in the east of France with an altitude of up to 1,424 metres. They are located in the border triangle between France, Switzerland and Germany. The Vallée de la Bruche is a river valley near Strasbourg, which is well off the beaten track. The main town is Schirmeck. At 1,009 metres, the Donon massif is the highest point in the Northern Vosges, while the Champ du Feu (1,099 m) on the other side of the valley is already part of the Middle Vosges.

Arrival

By car: from Germany via the A5 motorway via Kehl and Strasbourg.

Best time to travel

April to mid-October. In summer, it is pleasantly warm even at altitudes above 1,000 metres. However, there can be thunderstorms in the afternoon.

Accommodation

La Rubaneriein La Claquette: A cosy and quiet hotel by the river that seems a little out of date with its shingle façade. The rooms are in a classic style, everything is a little worn, and the one or other break in style in the interior design makes the Rubanerie all the more appealing. Lovely, delicious and plentiful breakfast and very friendly hosts. (www.larubanerie-hotel.com)

Worth seeing

The horror lies in the middle of the idyllic forest: the Struthof-Natzweiler concentration camp, built in 1941, is the only facility of its kind on French soil. 52,000 prisoners had to perform forced labour in the nearby quarry. 22,000 people died. The European Centre of Deported Resistance Fighters is a place of remembrance of very special significance (www.struthof.fr).

Jean-Frédéric Oberlin, Protestant pastor, pedagogue and social reformer, had the goal of building a new society in the middle of a poor Vosges valley in the 18th and 19th centuries. You can find out all about it at the Oberlin Museum in Waldersbach (www.musee-oberlin.org).

Food

Alsace and the Vosges have always been known as a gourmet region - both for their culinary specialities and their excellent regional wines. In the restaurants and mountain inns of the Vosges you will find fine, but rather traditional cuisine. Prices are in the middle range.
MYBIKE tip: Hearty, savoury and excellently prepared regional cuisine is served in the Restaurant La Schlitte (the Alsatian word for "wooden sledge") in La Broque. (www.restaurant-schlitte.com)

Bike service

Ttecmoto in Schirmeck offers bike servicing and spare parts, but these are very overpriced - the boss is allowed to do so. (www.ttecmoto.fr)

Information

Office de Tourisme, 114, Grand-Rue, F-67130 Schirmeck, Tel. 0033/388/471851, (www.valleedelabruche.fr)

Cycle routes for all levels of difficulty, as well as hiking tours and information about places to stop for refreshments, services and maps can be found at (www.vogesenwandern.de)

Literature

Travel guide "Alsace", by Antje and Gunter Schwab. Detailed, carefully researched travel guide with depth. Michael Müller Verlag, 444 pages, ISBN 978-3-95654-401-9, 21.90 euros