It's been three years since we visited the city for the first time. It was spontaneous back then. A short trip that changed everything. Lyon has been in our hearts ever since. Now we're here again, this time for three days. We are travelling light, but as always, our folding bikes are a must. Direct flight from Berlin. The journey from the airport to the city centre goes like clockwork. The City Card is ready to hand, Lyon's all-round carefree package. Museums, public transport, boat trips on the Saône: all included. Perfect for us. We know the city a little, we know what makes it tick. That gives us freedom and our folding bikes give us wings.
The first day is all about getting an overview. We saddle up our Bromptons, strap on our helmets and set off: Old Town, Saône and Rhône. We explore every neighbourhood. It's a return journey on cycle paths. In one of the old alleyways, we look up to the basilica. "Morning," I say. Alex nods. Today it's time to see everything and savour the atmosphere. We take a long break in the Parc de la Tête d'Or. We love this place. Between the lake, the orangery and the small, free zoo, the clocks seem to tick more slowly. "Do you remember when we used to sit here and watch the giraffes?" asks Alex. I nod. And today, too, we reminisce about this place. As the day draws to a close, hunger sets in. Lyon wouldn't be Lyon without its bouchons. Red and white chequered tablecloths, a dense babble of voices, the smell of braised meat and fresh bread. In the Cafe du Jura, which opened back in 1867, I savour the homemade pike dumplings in lobster sauce, Alex raves about his veal tripe sausage. With a glass of Côtes du Rhône. "A lot has changed," I say. "Especially for us cyclists."
Paradise for connoisseurs and cyclists
In fact, even after the first tour, we realise how much has changed. Dedicated lanes, green signs at junctions, clear markings on the tarmac. It's as if the city had invited the cyclists to finally be a part of it. "Did you see it like this back then?" Alex asks me. "No," I say. But now it feels like Lyon has rolled out the carpet for us.
The second day starts early, it's Sunday. In Lyon that means market day. We head for the Quai des Célestins. Between stalls selling fresh apricots, crispy baguettes and fragrant cheese, we lose ourselves in the hustle and bustle. I stop at a stall selling fruit and vegetables, Alex tastes goat's cheese straight from the farm. But that's not enough. After our visit to the market, we are drawn to the Halles de Paul Bocuse. We feel like we're in a culinary theatre play. Alex watches a chef decorating a terrine, while I get stuck at a stall selling colourful macarons. "This isn't an indoor market," I say, "it's a temple." Alex agrees with me. Everything is fresh, lively, generous. Lyon doesn't have its gourmet reputation for nothing.
In the afternoon, we need a break from feasting. Our route along the Rhône leads directly to the Musée des Confluences. This futuristic building looks like something straight out of a science fiction film. Inside, it is all about the big questions of being human. Who are we? Where do we come from? Where are we going? For a few hours, we let ourselves drift through worlds, cultures and thoughts. We return in the evening along the Saône. The light bathes the facades in a warm gold colour. Cycling becomes a meditation here. "This is happiness," I say quietly. Alex agrees.
Our third and final day starts with a steep climb up to the Notre-Dame de Fourvière basilica. "Let's take the cable car," I suggest. "Otherwise, I'll be more of an ambulance case at the top than the view." Once at the top, the view takes our breath away. The whole city lies at our feet. Life pulsates between the rivers, the hills and the old walls. Down we go on two wheels, carefully, keeping an eye on every cobblestone. On to the creative neighbourhood of Croix-Rousse. Between murals, cafés and studios, we discover the hip side of Lyon. "Like Kreuzberg in the nineties," I say. Alex laughs: "Only with better cheese."
We spend our last evening in "La Commune", a food hall with old industrial charm. Various stalls, young restaurateurs in the test phase, fair prices. We try our way through Indian masala, Asian noodles and French tarts. It's loud, lively and cosy. Alex raises his glass. "To Lyon," he says. I toast to him. "And to seeing you again soon."
Lyon surprises us on our first, second and third visit. The city grows with every glance, every pedal stroke, every bite. It's not just the food or the sights that attract us. It's the mixture of enjoyment, history, hospitality and a new love of cycling. Lyon has changed, but lost nothing in the process. And what about us? We'll definitely be back.
3 tour tips for Lyon
At this point, you will find external content that complements the article. You can display and hide it with a click.
Route 1: In the heart of Lyon - between the Rhône and the Saône
Start / Finish at Place Bellecour | Circular route length: 18 km | Terrain: flat
This 18 km long, easy circular tour takes you across the Lyon peninsula, between the Rhône and Saône rivers, through the old town and the modern Confluence district. A mix of culture and Lyon charm, perfect for gaining a first impression of the city.
Route 2: City & Nature
Start / Finish at Place des Terreaux | Circular route length: 40 km | Terrain: flat
A 40-kilometre circular tour that combines Lyon and its surroundings, city and nature. Passing the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the opera house designed by Jean Nouvel, the route crosses the Rhône into green landscapes: the Parc de la Feyssine and the huge Parc de Miribel-Jonage. The route continues over the Pont d'Herbens to the Grand Large lake before returning to the city along the Canal de Jonage.
Route 3: City & mountains
Start / Finish at Place Bellecour | Circular route length: 50 km | Terrain: mountainous | Ascent: 700 m
The 50 km long loop climbs 700 metres over Mont Thou and Mont Verdun. From there you have impressive panoramic views of Lyon, the Alps and the surrounding area. On the way back, the Voie Bleue and Voie des Dombes cycle paths take you through charming villages and green paths back to the city centre.
Info and tips for your city trip to Lyon
Journey
Flight time approx. 2 hours Berlin - Lyon-Saint Exupéry (LYS)
Train: Berlin - Lyon (approx. 9 - 10 hours, 1 change in Frankfurt/Paris)
Travelling time
May - June: mild, ideal for cycling and sightseeing
September - October: pleasant, fewer tourists
July - August: very hot, busy with tourists
Worth seeing
Old town Vieux Lyon - Picturesque UNESCO quarter with narrow alleyways, Renaissance houses and cosy bistros
Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière - magnificent church on the hill with a panoramic view over the whole of Lyon
Parc de la Tête d'Or - huge city park with zoo (free entry!), lake and botanical garden, perfect for relaxing
La Croix-Rousse - Lively neighbourhood with small squares, cafés and traditional crafts
Musée des Confluences - futuristic building on the Rhône with exciting exhibitions on nature and culture.
Tip: Lyon City Card - The Lyon City Card offers free entry to over 20 museums, unlimited use of the bus, tram and metro, boat trips on the Saône and Rhône as well as discounts at sights and selected events. www.visiterlyon.com/lyon-city-card
Bike hire
Vélo'v - practical, urban bike sharing system with over 400 stations throughout Lyon. www.velov.grandlyon.com
ComhiC - Bike rental in Lyon, which offers high-quality city and e-bikes and organises guided bike tours through the city. 7 Quai Romain Rolland, 69005 Lyon, www.comhic.com
Overnight stay
The Hotel Roosevelt in Lyon is centrally located in the 6th arrondissement, close to sights, restaurants and public transport, comfortable rooms in a modern ambience.
48 Rue de Sèze, 69006 Lyon, www.hotel-roosevelt.com
Info & Travel Guide
www.visiterlyon.com - the official tourism platform of the city of Lyon
www.lyon.sehenswuerdigkeiten-online.de - The website is a comprehensive online travel guide to Lyon, providing detailed information on the city's most important sights.
Food & Drink
Café du Jura - Traditional Lyon bouchon offering classic regional cuisine in a cosy atmosphere. 25 Rue Tupin, 69002 Lyon
Halles de Paul Bocuse - Food court / market hall; the market hall covers a total of 13,000 m². The food on offer is characterised by its exceptionally high quality. 102 Cr Lafayette F, 69003 Lyon
La Commune - Hip food court in a chic industrial style with a terrace and changing stalls with creative international dishes. 3 Rue Pré-Gaudry, 69007 Lyon
Organiser trips
Cycle path journeysCycle tour along the Rhône from Lyon to Arles. Between the Alps and the Massif Central in Provence. 8 days, www.radweg-reisen.com/radreise-rhone
Launer Reisen: On the Rhône cycle path from Lyon to the Camargue. 9 days,
www.launer-reisen.de/radreise-rhone-radweg-lyon-ans-mittelmeer
