Somehow you can't shake off the impression that the people of Sauerland want to be alpine come hell or high water. As if they would like to be mentioned in the same league as Tyrol, Upper Bavaria or Salzburger Land. In Hochsauerland in particular, they take this alpine or alpine cult quite far. On our cycle tour through the Sauerland, we come across plenty of restaurants that call themselves alpine huts or snack stations and where pork knuckles, Obatzter and pretzels are served. The service staff sometimes have to squeeze into dirndls, and to top it all off, Bavarian beer is also served - even though three major breweries, Veltins, Warsteiner and Krombacher, are at home in the Sauerland.
It's a bit strange that they go all alpine here in North Rhine-Westphalia (and a tiny part of Hesse). People in the Sauerland also say "Moin" as a greeting, just like they do on the North Sea coast. The Kahler Asten is much closer to Hamburg than Munich, and the cows in the pastures are mostly black and white - just like in East Frisia. And anyway, the Sauerland is so beautiful that it could actually get along quite well with just being the Sauerland - and not alpine as well.
This is probably due to the fact that the Sauerland region welcomes most of its guests in the winter sports sector. With around 80 kilometres of pistes, especially in Winterberg and Willingen, they boast the largest ski area north of the Alps. Hiking is also popular: the Rothaarsteig, one of the most famous hiking trails in Germany, runs right through the centre of the Sauerland. And for mountain bikers and downhillers, there are some pretty ingenious facilities.
On a touring bike through the land of 1000 mountains
We wanted to explore it on a touring bike, the "land of a thousand mountains", as the Sauerland is often called. Incidentally, a primary school teacher from Wattenscheid came up with the name in 1936. The teacher wrote a bit of poetry and wrote down the following: "Sauerland, Siegerland, Wittgenstein - that's a beautiful triad, melodious and clear and as fresh as the mountain waters that jump down into the valley from the thousand mountains of this humpbacked world."
The teacher Hüls described the hilly world quite well. On the first day of the tour, I was convinced that the Sauerland was called Sauerland because my muscles were completely over-acidified by the numerous poisonous climbs. In any case, I'm exhausted after the first stage from Meschede to Willingen and almost a little angry with myself that I didn't treat myself to an e-bike. Fellow cyclist Henning is travelling with electronic assistance and has great fun whistling past me on every climb. The scenery here in the Hochsauerland district is perfect, but the Sauerland region still needs to improve a bit for cycle tourists. They have founded their own organisation called "Radwelt Sauerland". But what good is it if the cycle route signs are missing or so faded that you can't recognise them? At least that applies to the Hochsauerland. Later, we cycle along premium cycle routes that are unrivalled. But more on that a few hundred climbs later.
After Brunskappel, the route is thankfully more relaxed along the valley. This is also very scenic, but has a name that is no longer acceptable today: It is called the Neger Valley, named after the small river Neger. After Olsberg, we roll through the Gierskopp-Bachtal nature reserve and catch sight of the Bruchhauser Steine above the roofs of the pretty village of Elleringhausen. There are four of them: Feldstein, Goldstein, Ravenstein and Bornstein. The rocks protrude strikingly and prominently from the Istenberg because their volcanic rock porphyry has defied weathering for thousands of years more than the surrounding clay slate.
Alpine flair in Willingen and Winterberg
Willingen has no rocks. Willingen has ski slopes, Willingen has mountain bike facilities where downhill specialists can be pulled up the mountain by lift to race down at a crazy speed. Above all, Willingen has pubs and bars. The town is known as the "Ballermann" of the Sauerland. It is said that Sauerlanders don't necessarily spit in the glass themselves. "The man drinks, the horse drinks / In Sauerland it's the other way round." This is a popular saying here. But what goes on in Willingen at the height of the season is also repugnant to most of the locals. They just put up with it because they often make a good living from it.
That's nothing for us, so a quick breakfast and on we go. From the cycle path on the edge of the village, you have a good view of the viaduct, a historic railway bridge over the Itter, before you reach the Mühlenkopf ski jump. And this is actually the largest ski jump in the world. Mind you, it is a ski jump; there are several ski flying hills that are larger. World Cup competitions are regularly held here, attracting 40,000 spectators and more. Now, in the middle of July, nobody is guaranteed to jump off, so take a quick selfie in front of the jump and move on.
Behind Usseln, a mountain with the beautiful name Kahle Pön rises 775 metres into the sky. We cycle below the summit on lonely forest paths to a viewpoint that has been given a very simple but also very appropriate name. It is simply called "Beautiful View". We enjoy the view before descending down the hairpin bends to Titmaringhausen. The hamlet with its half-timbered houses looks pretty from a distance. And Titmaringhausen is also pretty when you arrive in the village. That's not always the case in the Sauerland. It's not uncommon to think from a distance: "Oh, how beautiful, this contrast with the white walls and the dark half-timbered houses in the middle of the green landscape." Up close, however, it's clear that the Sauerlanders can also disfigure their villages quite well. That he completely seals his once green gardens with concrete and then tries to spruce them up again with begonias or other ornamental plants in rows.
In terms of scenery, the Sauerland is a real highlight in the north of Germany. In some tourist resorts, the comparison with the Ballermann on Mallorca is unfortunately often close - Sven Bremer, MYBIKE travel author
Winterberg also has a lot of concrete. The logical consequence when you want to accommodate thousands and thousands of guests in both summer and winter. We actually eat a few veal sausages in one of these alpine huts, followed by a Kaiserschmarrn, then continue past the ski slopes and the bobsleigh and toboggan run in the direction of Kahler Asten. We actually wanted to pedal off the calories by climbing all the way up on our bikes, but then, pressed for time and because it was so cloudy anyway, we headed straight off through a wonderfully fragrant forest towards Lennetal.
In the forest, we once again faced the problem of orientation when travelling without a "sat nav". Although there are numerous signposts for hikers, at some point there are none for cyclists. Sometimes this doesn't matter, as the hiking trails are also ideal for cycling, but sometimes not.
The hamlet of Jagdhaus: just like on the mountain pasture
Down in the valley it is easier again. The cycle path always runs parallel to the Lenne, almost always off the main road on small, low-traffic paths and through pretty holiday resorts. In Schmallenberg, we turn off to enjoy a selective final climb up to the small hamlet of Jagdhaus. By the time I reach the top at the Hotel Schäferhof, the e-bike section of our small but select tour group has already ordered its third beer. But at least it was worth the effort. The hotel is great, as are the views from the terrace. And the fact that the hosts advertise with the slogan "Almost like being on a mountain pasture" - well, forgive me; it really does almost feel like that.
The next morning, we cycle past the bison wilderness on the Rothaarsteig, a project that is unique in Europe but also quite controversial. There are posters all over the trees calling for a ban because the animals have felled thousands of beech trees. We don't get to see any bison from the road and race down to Aue at a monkey's pace. We continue on rather lonely district and country roads, this time gently uphill to the Rhine-Weser tower on the Stengenberg and finally down to Kirchhundem and soon afterwards to the southern end of the Biggetal dam. It's always a thing with reservoirs: when there's little water in them, they look a bit bleak. Cycling along the car-free cycle paths at Biggesee is still fun, but we don't bother with Attendorn at the northern end of the lake. Like some of the larger towns in the Sauerland, Attendorn is dominated by industry and commerce.
The Sauerland cycle ring makes the heart of the touring cyclist beat faster
We continue into the Repetal valley on shortcuts that a friendly Sauerland woman at the foot of Schnellenberg Castle told us about. The signposting is much better there. In Finnentrop, you have to concentrate once again to find the cycle path signs. When you turn off behind the town onto the Sauerland cycle ring, the touring cyclist's heart beats faster - and the pulse stays low. After Eslohe and from there on towards Meschede, the cycle route runs mainly on former railway tracks. There is a maximum gradient of three per cent, the route is perfectly signposted and, in addition to the directions, there are information boards and even tips on where to stop for refreshments. It goes without saying that the old railway lines are car-free. It really doesn't get any better than this!
By the time we arrive back in Meschede after 250 kilometres, we have almost forgotten about the poor signposting and the tough ramps in the Hochsauerland. Especially as there are no mountain huts or Bavaria-Stadl in Meschede and we are already thinking about coming back at some point over a Sauerland beer and a good portion of Potthucke, the Sauerland "national dish".
The video of the cycle tour through the Sauerland
Challenging: the Sauerland cycling region
The Sauerland is part of the Rhenish Slate Mountains, the highest peaks in the region are in the Rothaargebirge. At 843.2 metres, the Langenberg is the highest mountain in North Rhine-Westphalia, while the Kahle Asten near Winterberg is probably the most famous mountain in the Sauerland, but with a height of 841.9 metres, it is only number three of the Sauerland peaks. But because they built an observation tower on the Kahler Asten, nowhere else in the Sauerland can you get closer to the sky or enjoy such a magnificent panoramic view.
The routes are challenging, at least in the Hochsauerland district; if you are not well trained, you are better off getting on an e-bike. In total, you have to conquer almost 4,000 metres in altitude over the 250 kilometres. The signposting in Hochsauerland sometimes leaves a lot to be desired.
On the section from Finnentrop to Meschede, however, the signposting is exemplary - including plenty of information on the history of the region and tips for cyclists on where to stop for refreshments. Orientation also works well because the Sauerland region has adopted the tried and tested Dutch model of junctions. On the final stage, the route runs predominantly on former railway tracks with few gradients and excellent tarmac, while in the Hochsauerland you sometimes cycle on tarmac paths, but also quite often on fairly rough gravel.
Tour itinerary
Meschede - Remblinghausen - Kirchrarbach - Bödefeld - Siedlingshausen - Olsberg - Elleringhausen - Willingen - Usseln - Titmaringhausen - Winterberg - Westfeld - Oberkirchen - Fleckenberg - Jagdhaus - Aue - Kirchhundem - Flape - Wirme - Silberg - Welschen-Ennest - Oberveischede - Biggesee - Attendorn - Finnentrop - Fretter - Eslohe - Wenholthausen - Berge - Meschede
GPS data Sauerland cycle tour
You can download the GPX track for the cycle tour through the Sauerland download here for free or find it in the MYBIKE Collection on komoot.
Information about the cycle tour through the Sauerland
Arrival
With Deutsche Bahn, it takes around 4 hours from Hamburg with two changes, and 3 to 4 hours from Frankfurt to Meschede. It is essential to book your bike on the IC or ICE (www.bahn.de). It also takes around 4 hours by car from Hamburg, as well as from Frankfurt. To the west of the Sauerland is the so-called Sauerland route (A 45 motorway), to the north is the A 44 motorway (between Kassel and Dortmund), and the A 46 motorway runs from Hagen to Brilon right into the "Land of 1,000 Mountains". Flixbuses, which also transport bikes for 9 euros (no e-bikes, no tandems), stop in Meschede, Winterberg and Brilon, among other places.
Worth seeing
The Atta Cave near Attendorn, which was formed around 400 million years ago, is considered one of the largest and most beautiful stalactite caves in Germany (www.atta-hoehle.de). The DampfLandLeute museum in Eslohe is not only recommended for technology freaks (www.museum-eslohe.de). Winter sports enthusiasts can visit the Mühlenkopf ski jump in Willingen (www.weltcup-willingen.de).
events
Every year in May, the Willingen Bike Festival takes place, including various races and the largest outdoor trade fair in the mountain bike segment. willingen.bike-festival.de
Accommodation
Willingen: Hotel Hochheide; simple but comfortable, a few interior designers were allowed to really let off steam in the lobby. Large bike cellar, no restaurant. Double room/breakfast from approx. 120 euros, tel. 05632/6060 or 985-0, www.hochheide.com
Hunting lodge: Hotel Schäferhof; this is how a hotel should be! Wonderfully situated in the small hamlet of Jagdhaus not far from Schmallenberg. Beautiful rooms with lots of wood and attention to detail. Good cuisine, friendly service, great view from the terrace. Double room/breakfast from 114 euros, tel. 02972/963983-0, www.schaeferhof.com
Niederhelden: Landhotel Repetal; beautiful old half-timbered house in the idyllic Repetal; however, the furnishings are also quite dated. The cuisine, on the other hand, is really good. The typical Sauerland Potthucke tastes just as good as the burgers and desserts. Double room/breakfast from approx. 90 euros, tel. 02721/9417-0, www.landhotel-repetal.de
Meschede: Hotel von Korff; the family-run Hotel von Korff is both brilliantly and disastrously located. It is right opposite the train station, which is extremely convenient for train travellers. But it is also located in the middle of Meschede's unsightly concrete jungle. Friendly hosts, good cuisine. Double room/breakfast from approx. 95 euros, tel. 0291/99140, www.hotelvonkorff.de
Food and drink
Let's start with drinking for a change; on the one hand, because the Sauerland people are said not to spit in their glasses and on the other, of course, because three well-known large breweries have been based in the region and brewing beer for around 200 years. The naturally cloudy, light-coloured Grevensteiner from Veltins in Meschede is recommended, the Krombacher brewery from the southern Sauerland produces a really good non-alcoholic wheat beer, and Warsteiner may not be "the real deal", but it also makes a good, slightly more bitter non-alcoholic beer.
Sauerland cuisine is rather hearty, known for its sausage variations. Potthucke, a dish consisting primarily of potatoes (bacon and Mettwurst sausage), is quite tasty and has a relatively low meat content (it can even be vegetarian) and got its name ("Das, was im Topf hockt") because the mashed potatoes stick to the bottom after baking in the oven. An absolute speciality is Atta cheese, which matures in the stalactite cave near Attendorn that gives it its name. We enjoyed it as a cheese between a very successful cheeseburger.
Maps Sauerland
ADFC regional map Sauerland from BVA-Verlag, scale 1:75,000, 8.95 euros
The two Compass maps 3054 and 3064 (1:70,000) together cover the whole area (7.99 euros), but are no longer being reissued. You only need the upper part of the Marco Polo leisure map Sauerland-Siegerland (1:110,000), 7.99 euros.
Information/Planning
Sauerland-Tourismus e. V.Johannes-Hummel-Weg 1, 57392 Schmallenberg, Tel. 02974/96980, www.sauerland.com
For both Android and Apple products (iOS), you can download the free Sauerland app download.
Bicycle service
Bicycle Hegener in Meschede rents out very decent e-bikes from the traditional Sauerland brand Kettler. The Hegeners have branches in Schmallenberg, Lennestadt and Eslohe. You pay 25 euros per day. Fahrrad Hegener, Mühlenweg 1, Tel. 0291/1455, www.fahrrad-hegener.de
E-bike charging stations Along the route, you will find a number of refreshment stops, including at the Rhine-Weser Tower, the Schmallenberg and Winterberg tourist information centres and the Hotel Platte in Attendorn. Not unimportant, because the climbs will drain your battery faster than you think.
