After him, the deluge! A stream bubbles across the path. Pretty, but shouldn't actually flow here for long. The beaver was active again! Which he has been more often recently, up here on the Feldberg in the Black Forest. First he dammed up the stream and let the forest meadow next to it drown. Then the water sought a new path. That's landscaping the beaver way.
The plan for our gravel tour through the Black Forest: always follow the water!
"I'll just ride through it now," says Line and pedals valiantly. It works wonderfully with the gravel bike, that's what they're made for. But the water shouldn't rise any further. Conny Gröbler, cross-country skier and owner of the Todtnauer Hütte below the Feldberg summit, can also tell you a thing or two about dammed mountain streams: "I like the little guy. The landscapes he creates are not only good for biodiversity, they also look exciting," he says. In winter, Conny tracks the huge network of trails around the Feldberg, but he also gets around up here a lot in summer.
"When I first saw the beaver diving down as I drove past in winter, I initially thought it was a baby hippopotamus as big as the chap was," he says with a grin. "These are impressive structures that the animals build. They change every day. Or a stream suddenly overflows its banks." Once almost extinct, the beaver has definitely made a comeback up here - and is clearly feeling at home.
With or without Beaver's contribution: water characterises the Black Forest. Since time immemorial. Somewhere it is always gurgling, bubbling and hissing: water threads its way through narrow valleys, has created gorges and gnawed through entire mountains. It lies there as still as the Feldsee. It gurgles gently over lovely mountain pastures. It sprays over slopes and gushes through jagged rock. And in the deep forests, it gushes quietly from between thick moss, growing into streams and eventually mighty rivers: The Rhine and Danube are fed by the pure springs of the Black Forest.
Just like the contents of our water bottles, because it's practical: you can quench your thirst at natural springs all over the Black Forest. The plan for our gravel bike tour on the last days off in late summer is also all about water. The idea: with gravel bikes and tents, we want to cycle from Freiburg right across the Upper Black Forest, on marvellous paths and, if possible, always following the water. Along wild rivers. Towards hidden waterfalls and secluded mountain lakes.
It's also extremely attractive: stopping every now and then on the way to refresh ourselves. Dip your hot feet in the cool water. Rinse away the sweat. Oh! "It was a good plan," sighs Line at the top of the Feldberg and pulls his windbreaker a little tighter. Gloomy rain clouds billow over the ridge. We're right in the middle of it. We now have plenty of water. Unfortunately, it's coming from above. In view of the bad weather forecast, we had left the tent at home and booked hotel rooms instead. At least we'll be dry at night if we get soaked during the day.
However, when we set off from Freiburg three days earlier, the sun was still beating down from the sky. Our first stage destination is a good 30 kilometres from here as the crow flies on the panorama deck of the Black Forest: the foothills between the Elz, Kinzig and Rhine valleys are quite something. To start off, we follow the mountain river Elz for a short, relaxed stretch before plunging into the secluded forests of Freiamt on our gravel bikes.
Freiamt is neither a town nor a region. Rather, it is a municipality consisting of five villages covering an area of 52 square kilometres: "It's not the southern Black Forest and it's not the northern Black Forest, but it's not quite the central Black Forest either. It's just Freiamt," says Angelika Lais, the friendly landlady of the Kreuzmoos hiking centre, where we spend the first night. Small streams have carved deep valleys between the mountain peaks - making the roads a real challenge. The Kreuzmoos is cosily situated on a ridge with magnificent views. But if you want to get there by bike, you need a lot of power in your legs.
Tarmac or forest path: gravel biking means freedom
The next morning, however, it's a rapid descent to Elzach, from where we immediately crank back up towards Rohrhardsberg. The good weather is still holding out. The gurgling Yachbach stream accompanies us for a good part of the way, a blocky mountain stream like the ones we encounter here. It rolls well on the finely gravelled forest path. The only problem is that we can't speed along: our heavily packed bags make themselves felt, even without sleeping bag, tent and cooker. Small stones crackle under the studded tyres - and we soon feel completely removed from civilisation again. After all, gravel biking means freedom, the blurring of boundaries: Gliding along gently on tarmac or turning off onto lonely forest paths. It's all there.
The ruffled high pastures around the 1152 metre-high summit of the Rohrhardsberg are stained yellow in late summer. In terms of water, the mountain ridge between Rohrhardsberg and Brend is something very special: the European watershed between the Rhine and Danube runs here. At the top, we enjoy the sweeping views over the gently undulating Black Forest peaks that disappear into the distance. There is hardly anyone else on the road. The sun warms our furs. But the first veils of cloud are gathering from the west.
As we plunge into the well-earned descent a few kilometres further up, the cloud cover has closed in. We stop at the source of the Elz in the forest between Brend and Schonach. The name Elz is derived from the Celtic word Altia and means "she who comes from the heights" - which is exactly what we do now: we hurtle down from the heights into the valley on our gravel bikes. Unfortunately, it's only a short burst of fun. Because we're already heading back up to the next water highlight of the day: Lake Blinden.
It is small, circular and lies in the middle of a raised bog, completely surrounded by a dense, scrubby forest. We push the last few metres over a boardwalk. The Blindensee lies there in complete tranquillity. We are immediately mesmerised by the mythical atmosphere. It was formed over 8,000 years ago and has neither a proper inlet nor an outlet. Although there is the old legend of the cow that once sank in the Blindensee and reappeared in the Danube days later.
Landlady Rita at the Hotel Rita in Schonach, where we are staying for the night, laughs at such stories - and digs out a few more herself: once upon a time, a carter and his team of horses disappeared into Lake Blinden and reappeared in the Kinzig valley.
The next day is also characterised by water, but not in the way we had imagined: It pours outside without a break. We drag out breakfast until it slowly drips away in the late morning. As we set off, wafts of mist are still wafting through the forest. Everything is dripping. But it stays dry. How lucky we are!
Constant ups and downs - the gravel tour through the Black Forest requires fitness
On the heights around St Martin's Chapel, a brisk north-easterly wind whistles around our ears and dispels the haze. The view from the Brendturm tower near Furtwangen is amazing. The view sweeps far in all directions: Feldberg, Schauinsland, Kandel.
We treat ourselves to the descent into the Wildgutachtal valley on tarmac - what a pleasure! Over the millennia, the wild river has created the secretive, narrow winding valley gorge, which we crank uphill again. Ragged Black Forest houses cling to the incredibly steep mountain sides. Hardly a car fits on the little road, the rock faces get closer and closer together.
We make a detour to the Zweribach Falls. The Zweribach stream rushes down from the Kandel and has gnawed the rugged, shady valley into the hillside over the centuries. We chain the gravel bikes to a hiking signpost and trudge the last few metres along a steep rocky path to the waterfalls, which are over 40 metres high. The Zweribach falls over three steps, spraying spray in our faces. The forest has been left to its own devices for more than 50 years: Moss-covered boulders lie criss-crossed, fallen trees rot away, huge bare root plates protrude into the air. A forest like a wild, dishevelled pelt!
"That's what I love about gravel cycling," says Line: "You get to places you would never reach on a road bike, but you're more mobile than on a mountain bike or trekking bike." The Hexenlochmühle, a few kilometres up the valley, is not necessarily one of the most difficult destinations to reach: Anyone who wants to can get there effortlessly, thanks to the road. It is the only mill in the Black Forest with two water wheels. A nail forge was first built in 1825, later a sawmill with a larger water wheel was added, all under one roof.
You get to places that you would never reach on a road bike. The Black Forest is best explored on a gravel tour.
Patrick Kunkel, travel writer
The water wheels still run today - for demonstration purposes, but they are no longer sawn. The Hexenlochmühle has been a pub with a souvenir shop and all the trimmings for years. Motorcyclists love to descend here, roaring through the quiet valley on their noisy machines. Not our cup of tea. We're drawn further up. We first take a break at the source of the long-abandoned Oberwolflochhof before climbing the steep ramp up to our destination for the day, the Gasthaus Engel on the Hochberg.
The beams hang low in the Waldvogel family's rustic parlour, the house dates back to the 18th century: A visit to the Hochberg is not only a journey into the Black Forest's past, the mountain range also has another special feature, explains landlord Thomas Waldvogel: "It is a watershed. The water runs southwards to the Rhine and through the Schollach Valley to the Danube."
At the Feldberg, the next destination on our gravel tour through the Black Forest, the water once flowed towards the Danube before finding a new path through the Wutach Gorge to the Rhine during the last Ice Age - an example of the incredible creative power of water! We also take the path from the Feldberg towards the Rhine Valley. But the direct one. This time we don't follow the water, but the long mountain ridge - which first takes us to the Schauinsland summit and then on an epically long gravel descent to the outskirts of Freiburg.
The water flows through the streets there too - through the famous Freiburger Bächle. The streams, fed by water from the Dreisam river, are a symbol of the city and run through countless alleyways in the old town. Today they are no longer of any use, but they gurgle so beautifully. Flooding does not occur, that is taken care of. After all, the beaver has nothing to do with these watercourses. Guaranteed.
Tour route & GPS data for the gravel bike tour through the Black Forest
Day 1: Onto the panoramic deck
44 km, 1040 vertical metres, max. gradient 16 percent
Road surface: Mainly asphalt, gravel, natural surface
On the way from Freiburg up to Freiamt, there are a couple of tough ramps. The roads are usually very quiet, but motorcyclists are drawn to the area at the weekend. The views from the Hünersedelturm tower are magnificent and well worth the detour!
Day 2:Always following the water
36 km, 1,010 vertical metres, maximum gradient 15 percent
Road surface: roughly equal parts tarmac and loose surface
If you don't want to be shaken up first thing in the morning, you can also glide gently on tarmac via Selbig and Biederbach to Elzach. The crisp ascent to Rohrhardsberg is a tough one, with gentle undulations at the top, apart from the intermediate descent to Elzquelle and the renewed ascent to Weißenbacher Höhe and Blindensee.
Day 3: Off into the gorge
47 km, 1,350 metres in altitude, maximum gradient 18 percent
Road surface: three quarters of the route asphalt, otherwise gravel and natural surface
The first highlight is the charming ascent to St Martin's Chapel with the source of the Danube. But the highlight of the day is the wild and romantic Wutach Gorge, which is so narrow that the narrow road only just fits in. A tour that allows you to get to know the Black Forest in all its facets.
Day 4: Over the highest mountains
70 km, 1,140 metres in altitude, maximum gradient 18 percent
Road surface: About three-fifths gravel and two-fifths tarmac
Back to Freiburg! But on the difficult tour, please. You'll really start sweating on the climb up the Feldberg at the latest, and the road surface gets a little rougher from the highest point onwards. If you don't fancy the epic and fantastic forest track descent to Freiburg at the end, you can also switch to the famous Schauinsland mountain route from Schauinsland. The winding descent is legendary, but is also popular with bikers and car enthusiasts. However, the route is closed to motorcyclists at weekends. Another shortcut to Freiburg is available from Feldsee. From there, simply take the forest tracks to Rinken and descend through the Zastlertal valley (tarmac after 500 metres).
GPS data for the gravel bike tour through the Black Forest
The GPS data for the gravel tour through the Black Forest you can download here for free or find them in the MYBIKE Collection on komoot
Gravel tour through the Black Forest: tips & info
Arrival
Train: From Frankfurt/Main to Freiburg, approx. 2 hours
Season
Mid-April to mid-October. In the Black Forest, it can also get cold and rainy in summer, so always pack warm clothes and rain gear!
Food and drink
The Black Forest is not only a paradise for gravel bikers, but also a culinary paradise: For gourmets as well as for friends of rustic, down-to-earth cuisine. Simple inns serve hearty dishes such as Bibiliskäs' with Brägele (cream cheese with fried potatoes), Baden ox meat with horseradish sauce or a simple snack with bacon, sausage and cheese, accompanied by a regional beer such as Elzacher Löwenbräu or the famous Tannenzäpfle from Rothaus.
The red wine variety of choice in Baden is Pinot Noir, while regional white wines such as Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Chasselas also have nothing to hide internationally. Prices for food and drink in the Black Forest range from average to high.
Sights worth seeing on the gravel tour through the Black Forest
Observation tower on the Hünersedel (Day 1), the 744 metre high local mountain of Freiamt. The 29 metre high tower offers a panoramic view of the Rhine plain, the Vosges mountains and the Black Forest all the way to the Jura mountains.
Elzquelle and Blindensee between Brend and Schonach on day 2 and the world's largest cuckoo clock at the destination of Schonach.
Historic Reinertonishof between Schonach and St Martin's Chapel, Zweribach waterfalls and Hexenloch mill in the Wildgutach Gorge on day 3.
On day 4, tourism madness, Bollenhüte hats and pedal boats in Titisee. Natural silence on the Field lake and for those who still have the time: the Visitor mine at Schauinsland.
Overnight stay and food
Day 1:
Hiking centre Kreuzmoos, Kreuzmoos 1, 79348 Freiamt, phone: 07645-386
www.wanderheim-kreuzmoos.de
Double room/F p.p. incl. breakfast 37,50 Euro
Highly recommended. Great location on the heights, absolutely secluded. Very friendly owners. Down-to-earth, delicious regional cuisine without flavour enhancers. The breakfast makes you perfectly happy.
Day 2:
Hotel Rita, Schönwälderstr. 11, 78136 Schonach, phone 07722-4772
www.hotelrita.de
Double room/F p.p. 50 Euro
Simple, somewhat outdated hotel. Friendly owner, quiet location, tasty breakfast, but no evening meals - tip in Schonach: Gasthof Schwanen with historic parlour.
Day 3:
Gasthaus Engel, Hochberg 7, 79871 Eisenbach-Schollach, phone: 07657-919690
www.engel-hochberg.de
Double room/F p.p. incl. breakfast 48 Euro
More Black Forest is hardly possible: Typical rustic Black Forest restaurant from 1778 - with Herrgottswinkel and tiled stove. Well-known, home-style Baden cuisine. Rustic rooms in the historic inn.
Maps
Topographical leisure maps: Titisee-Neustadt (F506), Freiburg im Breisgau (F505), 1:50,000, 7.90 euros each. shop.lgl-bw.de
General information about cycling in the Black Forest
www.rad-schwarzwald.info
