Central Italy was hit by severe earthquakes in 2016. During reconstruction in the years that followed, the focus was increasingly placed on tourist infrastructure and outdoor tourism.
It is hard to explain why the Italian Marche region is still in a kind of slumber. Everyone nods their head in recognition at the word Tuscany. Umbria, of course, the typical Italy. The Marche, with its endless chains of hills in the hinterland of Ancona on the Adriatic coast, are still unknown and therefore all the more reason for us to explore them by bike.
We enjoy the almost car-free little roads, which offer a new view of lush green waves and at least one red church tower as a messenger of one of the old little towns waiting to be explored by cycle tourists in the Marche.
24 of these small towns in the Marche region are among the "Borghi piú belli d'Italia", i.e. the most beautiful villages in Italy. The club, which was founded in March 2001 on the initiative of the National Association of Italian Municipalities, aims to preserve, maintain and revitalise small towns. Prerequisites for the award include an intact urban structure, architectural harmony and a high quality of life in the village. Events such as festivals, exhibitions and concerts are regularly organised in the towns to promote artistic, cultural, historical and gastronomic life.
With perfect cycling temperatures of around 22 degrees, late summer is the best time for a cycling holiday in the Marche region. On the sometimes steep climbs, we enjoy the electric drive, otherwise cycling in shorts and jerseys is a real pleasure and always opens up new views of a region of Italy that is mainly characterised by agriculture.
There is not yet a comprehensive network of signposted cycle routes in the Marche region. On the Italian-English speaking Marche Outdoor online portal but there are some tour suggestions for touring cyclists, mountain bikers and racing cyclists.
Via the marcheoutdoor.it website and the interactive app for iOS and Android, cyclists can find out about new routes and activities, get around more easily and create their own route according to their personal interests. There is also information about special services for cyclists, such as repair shops, travel guides, bike hire and a navigation device to help cyclists find their way along the route. A Facebook page and an Instagram profile @MarcheOutdoor with constant updates, tips and news are available.
The coastal city of Pesaro is located in the Marche region and, together with Urbino, forms the capital of the province of Pesaro e Urbino. In 2022, the city was named Italian Capital of Culture 2024. The city centre is located on the Adriatic coast in a vast plain of delta, alluvial plains and sandy beaches from the Quaternary period. Pesaro is bordered by the peaks of Monte Ardizio and Monte di San Bartolo. The town has become a popular holiday destination in recent years, partly because of its beautiful beach location and partly because of the Rossini Opera Festival. The historic majolica tradition is a popular souvenir among holidaymakers.
Pesaro is also the starting point for extensive cycle tours along the Adriatic coast and into the hinterland. Under the term "Pesaro Rebirth" (in reference to the restart after the earthquake), you can find three large circular tours on the online portal Marche Outdoor:
There are plenty of cultural and culinary highlights to discover in the region between Pesaro and Urbino:
Ascoli Piceno is also the capital of the province. The town, which is one of the most beautiful medieval towns in Italy, is also the starting point for a variety of cycle tours through the surrounding vineyards to the Adriatic coast:
Venarotta: Church of San Francesco, which was founded by St Francis in 1215. The historic medieval hostel still welcomes pilgrims on the "Cammino francescano della Marca". In the monastery you can visit the herb garden, the alchemist's laboratory and the museum of Vino Cotto and medicinal wines.
Grottammare with the Logge and the 16 km long cycle path of the Riviera delle Palme as well as the hiking trail to the upper town of Grottammare, a medieval town perched directly above the sea.
Ascoli Piceno: Renaissance square Piazza del Popolo, with the 13th century Palazzo dei Capitani del Popolo and the Gothic hall church of San Francesco. To the right of "San Francesco" is the Loggia dei Mercanti, the market hall, and to the left the Renaissance cloister, where the market takes place in the mornings.
Tour 1: Urbino - Urbania - Piobbico - Aqualagna - Fossombrone - Isola del Piano (95 km)
Tour 2: Poggio - Santa Maria Nuova - Jesi - Filottrano - Osimo - Numana - Sirolo (103 km)
Tour 3: Ascoli Piceno - Venarotta - Castignano - Offida - Castel di Lama (83 km)
The tours are mostly on well-paved side roads. However, the constant ups and downs in the Marche hills require a good level of fitness.
The GPX data for the tours is available in the MYBIKE Collection at komoot:
At the small village of Fossombrone, the Metauro River carves a deep gorge into the rocks - the Marmitte dei Giganti. Even more impressive than the view of the turquoise-green water in the gorge from the bridge in the village is a canoe trip on the river through the metre-high rocks.
You can book a guided canoe tour with Per Metauro in Fossombrone.
Olives are a typical speciality in the Marche region. Large, fleshy green olives of the Ascolana de tenera de Piceno variety are stuffed with a flavoursome minced meat mixture, breaded and deep-fried. The golden-yellow, crispy balls are a popular finger food for aperitifs, but are also available as street food in paper bags.
Tip: Olive Ascolane are freshly prepared and also available in a vegetarian version in the bar Agorà in Ascoli Piceno.
The flatbread is made from flour, eggs, milk, lard, salt and pepper. The special processing and preparation method turns the dough into a crispy, flaky flatbread. The birthplace of crescia sfogliata is attributed to the kitchens of the ducal palace in Urbino. Crescia is often prepared with fresh garden vegetables, such as steamed chard or spinach, but can also be combined with fresh burrata, salami or ham.
Tip: You can get excellent crescia with various side dishes at the Agriturismo La Valle del Vento.
By car: Pesaro is located on the Mediterranean coast between Rimini and Ancona. From Munich via Modena and Bologna (A14 motorway) to Pesaro (exit Pesaro/Urbino) approx. 705 km.
By train: From Munich via Verona and Bologna to Pesaro with several changes. Journey time approx. 9 hours.
Information on taking bicycles on international trains is available from DB Travel Centres, DB agencies or by calling the service number 030/2970.
By aeroplane: There are direct flights with Lufthansa from Munich to Ancona, for example. Flight time approx. 1.5 hours.
May, June and September. Everything turns green in spring, the temperatures are pleasant and not too hot then and also in autumn, the German and Italian bathing tourists are not yet or no longer visiting.
There are bike shops and hire facilities in all the larger towns.
Restaurant Da Marcello: excellent fish specialities, in the bay of Portonovo, on the slopes of Monte Conero, directly on the beach.
Agriturismo Fiorenire: Family-owned farm in Castignano, traditional dishes innovatively realised, oil and wine from own cultivation. Also rooms and holiday flats.
Caffè Meletti: Magnificent Art Nouveau café directly on the Piazza del Popolo in Ascoli Piceno, the perfect place to start the evening with an aperitif.
La Vecchia Urbino: Dine in style in a building from the 16th century.
Osteria La Guercia: traditional, regional cuisine, in the centre of Pesaro, near Piazza del Popolo. The ancient building stands on the ruins of an ancient Roman villa from the 1st century B.C. Visible in the cellar, where there are mosaics from the period.
More info at www.italia.it/en

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