On the trail of 007: E-bike crossing of Basilicata - Italy's undiscovered south
Text: Max-Marian Boyzanovic
The engine hums quietly, the wheels turn - in theory. In practice, we are ankle-deep in problems after just four hours of touring. One look at the bikes is enough: This is no ordinary mud. This is clay. Italian super loam, to be precise. It sticks the wheels so thoroughly that even pushing becomes a challenge. The idea of including as many unpaved paths as possible on this tour seems rather naive at this point. A brief thunderstorm was enough to turn the supposedly harmless dirt track into a trip hazard. We have made it ten metres off the tarmac, but we capitulate less than twenty metres further on. Retreat is unavoidable. Rescue comes in the form of an Italian farmer whose knowledge of English tends towards zero - while our knowledge of Italian is limited to "Ciao" and "Grazie". But sometimes no words are needed. A glance at our muddy bikes, a sympathetic nod and we are directed to a high-pressure cleaner, which stands there like a salvation in yellow.
An hour later, the bikes are ready to go again. We have learnt the lesson: in Basilicata, we stick to tarmac. But that's no sacrifice - because on the roads here, you might come across three or four cars every hour. Loneliness included. Italy's forgotten south Basilicata? "Where is that?" We often heard this question when planning our trip. Understandable, because this region in the deep south has a shadowy existence as a tourist destination. Sandwiched between the crowd-pullers of the Amalfi Coast and Sicily, it offers exactly what many Italy fans are looking for: Authenticity without staging. In the mountains of the Apennines, which rise up to 2267 metres, wolves and bears seem to be in the majority - not people. However, film history buffs know about the region's one big star: Matera. This spectacular cave town has already served as the backdrop for over 50 films, including Mel Gibson's "The Passion of the Christ" and the latest James Bond "No Time to Die". Gibson is returning here in autumn to shoot "Resurrection" - the sequel to his Passion film.
It was precisely these film backdrops that piqued our curiosity. Studying satellite images and elevation profiles, we came up with the idea: why not cycle the length of the Italian boot? From heel to toe, you could say. From Bari on the Adriatic to Maratea on the Tyrrhenian Sea - coast to coast through largely unknown terrain. Ready-made route suggestions? No such thing. Travel reports? In short supply. Perfect. Because that's exactly what we were looking for: A region that has not yet been developed by cycle tourism. A small adventure on Europe's doorstep that could also serve as a test run for larger projects on the other side of the continent. After a few rounds of planning, the route is set: 350 kilometres with 8000 metres of elevation gain. That sounds ambitious, but with our e-trekking bikes - equipped with an 800-watt main battery plus a 250-watt range extender - we should be able to complete each stage without recharging. Even with 15 kilos of luggage in the panniers. The electric motor gives us the freedom to make spontaneous detours without immediately running into the red - both in terms of fitness and battery power. Our luggage is planned pragmatically: A small emergency camping set just in case, otherwise we rely on small guesthouses and holiday flats. Plus a change of clothes for the bike, rain gear and some evening wear. The Lucanian cuisine (derived from the historical name of the region, Lucania) is rustic but excellent: From "peperoni cruschi" - crispy dried peppers - to hearty cheese specialities such as canestrato or caciocavallo, there is plenty to discover.
Living like in the Neolithic Age
The first day is longer than expected, but when we reach Matera in the drizzling rain in the evening, all tiredness is forgotten. This city is simply overwhelming. The two basins - the famous Sassi - consist almost entirely of steps and alleyways that are only accessible on foot. It's a good thing we booked our accommodation right on the main street. "La Stalla" - the stable - lives up to its name. Carved five metres deep into the rock, this cave was once actually a shelter for horses. Today it has been lovingly renovated: A double bed on a gallery, striking pendant lights, a cosy couch. And of course a dehumidifier, because its original use as a cave cannot be completely denied. The history of Matera is less romantic than today's Instagram images might suggest. In the middle of the 20th century, the hygienic conditions in the cave dwellings were so precarious that the government had the town evacuated. Malaria, dysentery and an alarmingly high infant mortality rate forced the government to take action. The inhabitants were given a new town on top of the plateau. Today, Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has been completely renovated. Every staircase opens up new perspectives, every climb rewards you with breathtaking views. Especially during the blue hour, when artificial light and twilight merge, an atmosphere is created that cannot be described - you have to experience it. The best panoramic view is from the opposite side of the gorge, accessible via a swinging Tibetan suspension bridge.
Guard dogs? Everything half as wild
Day two is the queen's stage: over 100 kilometres and two tough climbs to Aliano. To conserve our batteries, we're riding in eco mode a lot today - which is still no relief given the metres in altitude. The route initially leads through a landscape that evokes Tuscan associations: rolling hills, undulating fields of grain, the occasional wind turbine on the horizon. But then the picture changes dramatically. The Calanchi - an erosion landscape as we know it from the American badlands - spreads out before us. Rain and soft clay have created a bizarre scenery here over centuries, as if someone had modelled too playfully with clay. Today, of all days, the weather tests us again. We get caught in a heavy shower and when I briefly leave the tarmac, several hundred grams of the infamous clay immediately stick to my shoe again. All thoughts of adding more off-road sections are finally off the table. But we have the roads almost to ourselves anyway. The entire road network feels like a privatised cycle path - only occasionally interrupted by the odd pothole. One issue that had worried us beforehand turns out to be completely unfounded: the infamous Maremmano guard dogs. These large, white herding dogs - often compared to polar bears - have a reputation for uncompromisingly defending their flocks of sheep. We had pepper spray with us to be on the safe side, but it always disappears deep into our pockets. Dog encounters? Not a single problematic one.
Dizzying heights
Pietrapertosa in the Lucanian Dolomites marks the next highlight - in the truest sense of the word. The village of 1000 people literally clings to the granite needles as if it had been pinned there. Some houses do without a wall and use the bare rock as a natural backdrop. If you want to go even higher, you should climb up to the castle ruins at sunset. This fortress - part of a complex defence system from the time of the Saracens, Byzantines and Lombards - is practically impregnable. Apart from through a narrow, easily defended tunnel, you can only get inside with climbing equipment. By the fourth day, we've got into the rhythm. The riding position is right, we can calculate the battery range well, and the 80 kilometres to Moliterno roll along almost by themselves. The route alternates between gloomy oak forests and panoramic ridges with distant views of the region's many wind farms.
Time and again, we come across half-hearted attempts to establish Basilicata as a cycling destination: Orphaned charging stations for e-bikes, weathered signposts, a disused railway line with kilometres of tunnels whose lighting has been installed but not coupled with motion detectors. It's a good thing that our bikes have a solid lighting system - but it doesn't help against the cobwebs.
Finale with statue of Christ
Basilicata has saved a treat for the last day. Although it is only five hours from Moliterno to Maratea - not to be confused with Matera - our actual destination is not on the black beach at sea level, but 623 metres higher: the "Statua del Cristo Redentore" is enthroned on the summit of San Biagio, visible from afar. This statue of Christ is the second highest of its kind in the world after the original in Rio. One look at the battery indicator: enough is enough. So we wind our way up the hairpin bends, some of which hover breathtakingly above the abyss. The motor and our own power take us up to a speed where you can feel the wind. Sweating is still part of it - the motor works optimally when you give it a high cadence by pedalling quickly. Then we're at the top. Behind us are the conquered peaks of the Apennines, above us the statue of Christ, in front of us a kitschy, beautiful sunset over the bay of Sapri. A perfect end to a tour that surprised, inspired and sometimes challenged us. Basilicata has won us over - as one of the last undiscovered regions in Europe, perfect for anyone looking for authentic Italy off the beaten track. And yes, we even forgave the clay.
GPS data: Cycle tour through Basilicata
Tour itinerary
Bari - (individually depending on fitness level and route) - Gravina in Puglia - Matera - Craco - Pietrapertosa - Castelmezzano - Moliterno - Pollino region - Maratea (statue of Christ)
The exact route is variable and should be adapted in advance according to fitness, weather and time available. In case of rain, avoid dirt tracks and stay on paved roads.
Tour dates
- Total length: approx. 350 km (variable depending on route)
- Total altitude metres: approx. 8000 m
- Duration: 5-7 days (depending on fitness level and route)
- Difficulty: Demanding, for experienced (e-)bikers
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Info & tips for your cycle tour through Basilicata
Tour character
Challenging e-trekking tour through the mountainous hinterland of Basilicata, off the beaten tourist track. The route leads from the Adriatic to the Tyrrhenian Sea - from the "heel to the instep" of the Italian boot. It is constantly uphill and downhill through rugged landscapes, past deserted mountain villages and through lonely valleys. The roads are mostly unpaved, and when it rains, dirt tracks turn into muddy tracks. Traffic is practically non-existent in the hinterland, but in Bari it is sometimes "Italian". The route requires a good level of fitness, an all-terrain e-trekking bike with good tyres and the willingness to embark on a real adventure.
MYBIKE tip
Finale with a summit assault: the destination is not on the beach in Maratea, but 623 metres higher up at the "Statua del Cristo Redentore" - the second highest statue of Jesus in the world after Rio de Janeiro. The hairpin bends to get there are partly suspended in the air and offer a spectacular end to the tour.
Journey
Plane & train: Travel to Bari by plane (e.g. from Munich, Düsseldorf, Berlin with Lufthansa, Ryanair or Eurowings). From Bari airport, take a shuttle bus or taxi into the city.
Return journey by train: From Maratea back to the car in Bari via Naples. Maratea - Naples: approx. 2h 40min (from approx. 15 euros), Naples - Bari: approx. 4h (from approx. 19 euros).
Important: Book train tickets early for the best prices. Bicycle transport should be checked in advance. Connections via Trenitalia or Italo.
Car: Travel to Bari via Austria, Slovenia and along the Adriatic Sea. Organise a parking space for the tour week at the starting point.
Best time to travel
May/June or September/October. It is very hot in high summer and too cold in the mountains in winter. The low season offers perfect temperatures and fewer tourists in Matera.
Accommodation
Basilicata offers everything from a simple bivouac in no man's land to a luxury hotel, depending on your personal taste and budget.
Matera: Cave dwellings (Sassi) converted into hotels - a unique experience. Numerous accommodation options in all price ranges, from simple B&Bs to boutique hotels. Central and atmospheric.
Pietrapertosa/Castelmezzano: Small, family-run accommodation in the mountain villages of the Basilicata Dolomites. Authentic and quiet.
Maratea: Coastal town with hotels of various categories. Good choice for the end of the tour.
Tip: Book accommodation along the planned route well in advance, especially in Matera and during the high season.
Food and drink
The cuisine of Basilicata is simple, hearty and spicy - a "cucina povera" with an authentic character.
Specialities:
Peperoni Cruschi: Dried, crispy fried peppers from Senise - the "red gold of Basilicata", symbol of the region
Lucanica: Traditional homemade sausage with fennel, chilli and garlic, the origin of all Italian sausages. Salsicce
Pane di Matera: Characteristic bread made from durum wheat with a crispy crust, IGP-protectedPasta: Strascinati, cavatelli or orecchiette with cime di rapa, chickpeas or tomato sauce Lamb dishes: Cazmarr (fried offal), Cutturiddi (lamb casserole)
Cheese: Pecorino di Filiano DOP, Caciocavallo Silano, Burrino (cream cheese with butter filling)
Wine: Aglianico del Vulture - the "king of Lucanian wines", a structured red wine from the volcanic mountain Vulture
Important: Many dishes are spicy with chilli peppers. The region competes with Calabria for the title of Italy's spiciest cuisine.
Worth seeing
Matera: UNESCO World Heritage Site. The "Sassi" - cave dwellings carved into the rock, which were inhabited until the 1950s. 137 rock churches with frescoes. European Capital of Culture 2019 - the absolute highlight of the tour.
Craco: Spectacular ghost town on a mountain ridge, evacuated in 1963 after landslides. Film set for "James Bond" and "The Passion of the Christ".
Castelmezzano & Pietrapertosa: The "Dolomites of Basilicata" - dramatic rock formations with medieval villages.
Between the two places: "Volo dell'Angelo" - Europe's most spectacular zip wire.
Maratea: The "Pearl of the Tyrrhenian Sea" with 44 churches, a picturesque old town and the monumental statue of Christ at an altitude of 623 metres.
Pollino National Park: Italy's largest protected area with a wild, deserted mountain landscape.
Bike service
Matera:
- Cicli Sport Matera, Via Lucana
- Noleggio Bici Matera (bike hire)
Potenza: Various bicycle repair shops in the regional capital
TipSpare parts and tools are essential for the tour. There are no bike shops in the hinterland. Charge e-bike batteries overnight in accommodation.
Luggage transport
Luggage transport is difficult to organise in this region.
RecommendationPack light and transport your own luggage on the e-bike, or stay in fixed accommodation (e.g. Matera) for several nights in advance and cycle day tours with light luggage.
Map and literature
Maps:
- Komoot: Best route planning option for individual tours through Basilicata with offline function
- OpenStreetMap-based apps for the region
Travel guide:
- "Basilicata & Matera" by Rough Guides (English)
- "Matera and Basilicata" by Dumont
General information
- www.basilicataturistica.it - Official tourism website of Basilicata
- www.matera-basilicata2019.it - Information about Matera
- www.aptbasilicata.it - Basilicata Tourist Board
