Maybe it wasn't such a good idea after all. 21,000 metres downhill on selected enduro trails through the Western Alps sounded like the ultimate trail experience to Johannes, Felix, Bene, Konsti and Bernhard. But now they are sitting in the meadow that is to be their first overnight stop, looking out over a chaos of frame bags, sleeping bags and food bags. Konsti is still pumping air into the shock and fork: "My luggage easily weighs 35 kilos, I don't even know how it will feel on the first trail tomorrow." In any case, they didn't get very far today. However, this was also due to the fact that they didn't set off from Fossano, a small town in Piedmont, until 7 p.m. due to all the packing and suspension adjustments. "Oh look, a centipede on your shoe!" Bene tries to lighten the mood. What nobody realises at this point is that not only millipedes live in this meadow, but also lots and lots of ants...
On the super trails of the Stone King Rally
The route of the Stone King Rally was to be their first crossing of the Alps. This ensured that every descent would be a celebration. After all, the 275-kilometre route from Fossano via the western Alpine peaks of Haute-Provence to the Mediterranean was specially designed for an enduro race. Specified level of difficulty: S2 to maximum S4. It was clear that the tour would be no fun on a light hardtail. That's why the enduro bike was a must. But the luggage thing was somehow not a good idea. Because unlike the racers at the Stone King Rally, the boys had planned to be 100 per cent in nature: no shuttle, no luggage transport and eating and sleeping in the open air.
The luggage chaos is still there when the boys peel themselves out of their sleeping bags in the morning, which have become damp from the dew. Exhausted and with itchy ant pustules all over their bodies, they gather up their clothes. "Did I have the gas cooker in the handlebar or frame bag?" "Give it to me, I'll put it in my rucksack." In addition to the weight of the bikes, fatigue is now pulling on their legs like lead on the first climb. They will have to rethink their original stage plan. That much is clear.
It's late afternoon when they roll through the village of Venasca and find a small grocer's shop. Thank goodness it's open. They had calculated in advance that they would always need provisions for three meals. But when Bene and Felix come out of the shop with a large bag of Italian dolci, a good half of it goes straight into their mouths. The rest is squeezed into the few free corners of their pockets. "Come on, one more rise, then we'll call it a day."
Wellness at Colle di Sampeyre
The Colle di Sampeyre surprises us with a place to sleep by a mountain lake. The water is freezing cold, but feels like wellness after the night of ants and the first tough stage. Afterwards, we have pasta cooked in broth and all is right with the world again. For a while anyway, because that night they are woken up by drizzle and sleeping bag seams that eventually start to soak through.
Again no sleep, again the sleeping bags have to dry before they can be rolled up. But the air is crystal clear as they reach the pass by pushing and suddenly have the 4061 metre high Gran Paradiso right in front of them. The first long trail now winds down into the Valle Maira in front of them. The time has come. The big test: How well can the bikes be steered through the high alpine terrain with all the extra luggage?
Not good. The trail starts with high steps, loose scree and hairpin bends. The handlebar bags fidget and restrict the view of the trail. The frame bags rattle, the heavy rucksack presses on the neck and helmet. The boys have to stop several times, tighten the fasteners and reorganise their luggage. At some point, the trail becomes more tame and things are going well - then Johannes slams on the brakes in the middle of the bend: a whole herd of cows is blocking the way. Unfortunately, the ladies can't be persuaded to take a brisk walk to the nearby alpine meadow. So we have to wait until they get hungry and clear the way on their own. All this costs time, which the boys have to make up for later if they want to reach their destination.
When the small Lou Dahu campsite near Marmora is finally in sight, there is a crash: Bernhard sees Bene and his bike and luggage fly through the air and hit the ground in front of him with a thud. Shocked silence - until Bene moves and picks himself up again. "Are you okay?" Miraculously, nothing happened to him on this hard impact. But his things are scattered all over the terrain and have to be collected again. That evening there is a hot shower, two portions of pasta for everyone and finally: sleep.
A starry sky like you've never seen before
Over the next few days, they get used to the rhythm: it takes time to dry and pack their clothes in the morning. It is usually late in the morning before they can set off. The climbs remain long and tough. They crank up the Colle del Vallonetto (2447 m) for hours and even have to carry the bikes up a scree slope for the last 200 metres. In return, they find a place to sleep on the ridge between Monte Sale and Monte Savi. From there, they can look out over an incredible mountain landscape and, at night, a starry sky that has never been seen before.
The descents become easier. But they are now also packing more skilfully and getting used to the ballast. When they come across a flow trail on the way, the extra weight on the wave and berm course is actually really fun because it gives them an extra boost. Exuberance spreads and this time Konsti pays for it with a crash. By the time the others reach the crash site, he has already knocked the dust off his trousers and is in the process of straightening his bent brake lever. "No, don't straighten it!" Bene is only just able to intervene. "Otherwise it'll break off!" Better bent brakes than no lever at all.
Bernhard is hit a little harder just before the village of Vinadio: "Something's wrong, I'm pedalling empty." Our diagnosis: the bolted gearing of the freewheel has come loose. A new hub is needed. Preferably a completely new wheel. But according to Google, there is only a well-stocked shop in the next largest town, which is easily a three-hour ride away from here. But it doesn't help. We fix the cassette to the spokes with cable ties. Bernhard no longer has a freewheel, but he can crank into town and find a replacement. Meanwhile, everyone else continues the tour.
After a night apart, Bernhard and his new hub only meet up with the group again in Vernante, on the French border. And they already have a new plan: the upcoming trails in France should be too good to just rattle down with the huge luggage. "That's why we're treating ourselves to a day without luggage today!" Bene lets the cat out of the bag.
A trail day free of ballast
Like an e-bike in turbo mode - that's how the bike feels after all these days without ballast. The boys fly up the first climb, while the rucksacks and bags wait hidden in the bushes for their return. The downhill trail: nothing rattles, jams or pulls. The bike and brakes respond as quick as an arrow, direct and light as a feather. This is exactly how the boys had imagined the trails of the Western Alps. To celebrate the day, they later put up in the village of La Brique and order beef tartare, quail and sea bream for dinner.
Unfortunately, all the lead has to be screwed back onto the bikes the next morning and thrown over the shoulders. They pedal ponderously uphill metre after metre. Their eyes are fixed on the front wheel because the pass just won't come any closer. When they finally reach the top at midday, they look out into a grey haze. The next mountains can be seen in silhouette, but the sea, which should be visible from here, is swallowed up by the mist. The disappointment is great when it starts to rain. If they wanted to, they could take the direct route downhill and celebrate by the sea tonight. But their mission is the trails. So they sit out the rain shower under a rocky outcrop and devote themselves to the many trails of the Valle Argentinas in the afternoon. Again without luggage, until it gets dark. They have a pizza in Molini di Triora - and so it's too late for a long search for a place to sleep. A small meadow on the edge of the village will have to do for today.
Unfortunately, this last night in the open air was not to bring any rest either. Shortly before dawn, it began to pour down so heavily that they had to take refuge in the unlocked changing rooms of a sports ground. But a low is followed by a very special high: they choose Monte Nero for the last descent of their 13-day tour. Its trail turned out to be the best of the entire route: Grippy sandstone slabs with natural steps, waves and berms, plus an almost continuous view of the Ligurian Sea.
"What a trip!" Over pizza on the beach in Bordighera, everyone agrees that this experience is one of the greatest of their lives and cries out for a repeat. Preferably in an even more remote area. Again on an enduro bike. But then there will be more food to carry - but mei, this kind of adventure is simply worth it!
Info about the Stone King Rally route
The "Stone King Rally" enduro race was launched as the successor to the legendary "Trans-Provence" and took place in 2022, 2023 and 2024. In six stages from Arvieux in Piedmont to Bordighera on the Ligurian Mediterranean coast.
- Length: 275 kilometres
- Downhill: 21,000 metres in depth
- Uphill: 5920 vertical metres (in the race with shuttle), 14,810 vertical metres without support
- Difficulty level: S2-S4
The route itself has been modified every year to include a few new trails. As a result, there are now three variants that you can download as a GPX file to follow. If you don't like metres in altitude and planning, simply book the tour as a guided trip with shuttle, accommodation and luggage transport. Info: stonekingrally.org
Best touring time
Until mid-June, you can still expect residual snow on the highest crossings (stages 1 and 2). From July to October, however, the passes should be free of snow. From mid-September, however, the days become significantly shorter.
The tour with E-MTB
Without a shuttle, you should allow around 8 to 10 stages for the entire tour. The tour is also feasible with an e-MTB, but a second battery and an economical riding style are required. Charging facilities are much rarer in the Western Alps than in the more densely populated Eastern Alps!
