BIKE Trailguide Silvretta: Ischgl Backstage
Text: Supertrails
Cursed heavy box - I think as I heave the e-MTB over the next boulder. Metre by metre, I fight my way up the steep ramp that leads to the Kronenjoch. Of which Tobi had claimed: "... should be rideable for the most part." But there's no question of "riding" here. It's pushing, pulling and swearing. My fingers are already cramping from constantly pushing the push aid. Annoyed, I look over at Tobi, who has found another way up. He stoically puts one foot in front of the other. Further up, Maxi is heaving his bike through the next hairpin bend - also in meditation mode. Only Jens seems to agree with me. I can hear him panting behind me.
Ischgl - sometimes lonely and quiet
Then, finally, we reach the Joch. To our left is the Breite Krone, to our right the mighty Fluchthorn, the second-highest peak in the Silvretta group at 3380 metres. "Take a look at the eastern flank," Tobi starts and points towards the Fluchthorn. "I once planned a ski tour there. But the slope no longer exists. The whole summit has broken off and reshaped half the mountain. Now it's 20 metres lower." It's hard to imagine how quiet it is up here now. Only our breathing can be heard in the thin air. A remote, almost surreal place, far away from the hustle and bustle. The Jamtal valley opens up below us, a broad, grey-green basin, at the end of which our trail, which we are about to tackle, is lost somewhere.
This tour had been on Tobi's mind for years. In winter, he often travelled here on skis, read lines and checked crossings and wondered whether the crossing over the Kronenjoch into the Jamtal could also work on a bike. An adventure that perhaps no-one has dared to attempt before. And of course Maxi, Jens and I immediately pricked up our ears when we heard the word "first ascent".
This day had started like a typical bike day in Ischgl: First up to the Idalp on the Silvrettabahn cable car - into the world of spotlights, superstars and glamour. The spring concerts here have been making headlines for decades: Pop and rock stars at an altitude of 2300 metres, among the snow and glasses of champagne. Tobi knows this side of Ischgl like no other. With his PR agency, he was responsible for Ischgl's media work for many years. He provided communications support for the big concerts, moderated press conferences, looked after journalists and helped turn the Tyrolean ski resort into an international brand. "Kylie Minogue, Tina Turner, Lenny Kravitz, Robbie Williams, Elton John - they've all been up here," Tobi gushes during the gondola ride.
And when we get off at the top of the Idalpe, he remembers: "Elton John wasn't allowed to step into the snow here back then - crocodile shoes! So we flew him up by helicopter and laid out a red carpet from the landing site to the stage." Today the Idalp is empty. The sun has only just made it over the main ridge peaks and a few employees are preparing the terrace for the summer guests. Instead of sound checks and camera cranes, there are a few enduro bikes dangling from the stands.
Our plan: get away from the glamour of Ischgl and into its wild side, which perhaps nobody knows yet. From the Idalp, we take the Flimjochbahn cable car up to the Outer Viderjoch. A short, steep ascent, then we dive into the smugglers' trail.
The narrow path runs playfully along the ridge, rolls past the iconic Greitspitze with its massive wooden cross, crosses slopes, hops over crests and repeatedly opens up views of Paznaun and across to the Silvretta group. Tyrol lies behind us, Switzerland in front of us, grassy valleys below, still in the shade. No bike park architect has worked on the trail until the Salaaser Kopf. A real nature trail with rough edges. After that, a built flowline takes over, swinging down to the Zeblasjoch with clean berms and waves. But then the comfort zone is definitely over.
Zeblasjoch: Welcome to the Ischgl Tibet
The official bike circus ends at the Zeblasjoch. We continue without a safety net: We cross the western flank of the 3089 metre high Vesulspitze on nasty scree slopes and then fight our way along rocky paths towards Fuorcla Val Gronda. "A beer to anyone who makes it to the top without descending," shouts Tobi from behind. But each of us has to take a break at some point, the ascent is so steep and rocky. A rusty sign finally marks the Austrian-Swiss border and the view follows a picture-book trail through an expansive plateau with alpine grasses and small lakes. Behind it rises the next rugged mountain range, dark and angular. "Welcome to Tibet," Tobi beams, presenting the scenery with a sweeping gesture. "Over there you can see the Breite Krone. To the right: the Fluchthorn. And somewhere in between, in this saddle, that's where we have to go today."
We suddenly realise how big the programme for today really is. But for now, let's take this trail through the plateau. The trail descends gently. Below Piz Fenga Pitschna, I wouldn't be surprised to come across a Nepalese and a yak. Instead, we spot a few marmots and pass a hiker who looks at us as if he has seen a yeti to match the yak. The gentle gradient of this dream trail allows us to travel at speeds far beyond the limit of our engines - completely atypical for these alpine altitudes, where the terrain is normally much more exposed and steep.
And so we fly downhill without slowing down - for what feels like an eternity. Below Piz Davo Sasse, the trail drops sharply to the right towards Heidelberger Hütte. The playful line now turns into a challenging descent: scree, hairpin bends, blocked steps. While we hadn't met a single biker on the whole way to the Heidelberger Hütte, we almost had to rub our eyes here. It's like a bike festival at what is probably the most famous high-alpine refreshment stop in the Eastern Alps. It takes a while before we spot Loisl Eiter, the charismatic landlord of the Heidelberger Hütte, in the hustle and bustle. "What, you want to go over the Kronenjoch?" he looks at us in disbelief. "You can forget it, you won't go any metres." We poke at our roasties in silence. Tobi doesn't seem so sure anymore. "Come on, let's share another Kaiserschmarrn and get on with it," Jens tries to lighten the mood again.
The darkness is faster
The Kaiserschmarren has ignited, but as harmless as the meadow trail looked from the hut - at close range, it catapults us out of the saddle every few metres. Either the pedal gets stuck on the high turf or the front wheel smacks into a mud hole and the rear wheel spins hollow. Maxi and Tobi are better at dealing with this, Jens and I are less so. At an altitude of 2500 metres, the trail is still clearly recognisable, narrow and firmly laid out as it curves through the alpine grasses. Out of consideration for the sensitive flora and fauna, you must not stray from the path here.
It rolls surprisingly well for a few minutes. But just when we think that the difficult part is behind us, the flank to the Kronenjoch rears up in front of us. The path up there is little more than a washed-out track. Steep and interspersed with large rock steps. Not much is rideable. At first we push, carry and lift the bikes in single file over high ledges, later everyone finds their own line, even off the path. Everyone works for themselves, at their own pace. But at some point we are all together at the top. The Breite Krone on the left, the Fluchthorn on the right, the already shady Jamtal valley at our feet. It's difficult to estimate how good the trail will be down there. In any case, the descent begins steeply. Loose gravel, little grip, full concentration. Further down, the trail becomes narrower and more technical, interrupted time and again by short stretches of flow. Our fingers ache from braking, our strength wanes and we don't take any breaks for fear of the dark. Only at the Jamtalhütte do we allow ourselves a breather. A drink, a glance at the clock, then onwards. There are still a few kilometres of trail to ride, but the darkness forces us to switch to the road towards Galtür. No-one is sad about this, because we've had enough trails today. We actually ride the last few kilometres back to Ischgl in complete darkness. No applause or red carpet awaits us here. But the full feeling of having completed a real bike adventure.
What you need to know
Thanks to its location on the steep main Alpine ridge, Ischgl already had bikers taking the lift in the 90s. This was soon followed by bike park lines, a connection to Switzerland and, of course, the legendary Ischgl Ironbike.
The precinct
Ischgl is located in the Paznaun Valley in Tyrol, nestled between the three thousand metre peaks of the Silvretta, the Samnaun group and the Verwall group. Today, the region offers a dense network of marked mountain bike trails, complemented by good lift connections in the summer months. At the same time, the high alpine environment opens up plenty of potential for challenging tours beyond the classic bike park routes.
Moving pictures: Here is the Ischgl video from Supertrails
Best time to travel
The village of Ischgl lies at an altitude of 1377 metres and the trails start at almost 3000 metres. There is often snow up there well into the summer. A biking holiday here is therefore unlikely before June. In autumn, the season usually ends at the end of September. Lift opening times: The summer season opens on 27 June, the last lift day is 4 October
Bike park & lifts
The Ischgl-Samnaun Bike Park has a Tyrolean and a Swiss side, which are connected by various mountain lifts. Mountain bikes can be taken on several cable cars. In particular, the large gondolas and chairlifts around Idalp, Viderjoch, Greitspitze and Alp Trida offer bike transport and thus enable cross-border tours on high-altitude trails or flow trails without many extra metres in altitude. The exact conditions and times vary depending on the season; up-to-date information is available directly on site and on the mountain railway websites.
New: Gravity-Card
The Bike Arena Ischgl/Samnaun, Kappl and See as well as the Silva Trails in Galtür are now connected to the Gravity Card. Holders of the season ticket (for 32 bike parks in Europe, price 680 euros) will have free access to all bike park facilities in Ischgl next summer. General information about the Gravity Card 2026: gravity-card.com Anyone staying in one of the hotels in Ischgl will automatically receive the Silvretta Card. This allows you to use all lifts in the area once a day free of charge. If you skilfully combine the lifts, you can ride the whole day for free (see Tour 1: Smuggler's circuit).
Events
7/8 August: The Ischgl Ironbike has been one of the toughest bike marathons in the Alps for over 30 years. The route selection ranges from "Extreme" (83.5 km / 3360 metres altitude) to "Light & Gravel" (30 km / 730 metres altitude). Entry fee: 72 euros. Other events such as Short Track, Kids Trophy and Expo Area are also planned.
3 to 5 September: E-Bike World Championships for everyone with various disciplines and a large expo area take place in Ischgl and neighbouring Paznaun. Entry fee: 69 euros.
Overnight stay
All hotels and guesthouses that are open in summer are usually specially equipped for bikers (bike room, washing area, etc.). The best way to book is via the website: ischgl.com. This saves booking fees compared to other portals. There are no campsites in Ischgl itself. But Camping Zeinissee is a very idyllic campsite for motorhomes in Galtür, at the end of the Paznaun Valley. The campsite by the lake is highly recommended for families. Info: camping-galtuer.at
General information
All information on accommodation, lifts, current trail conditions, bike hire, but the best way to register for both events is via the central homepage: ischgl.at
The top 3: Ischgl's enduro highlights
Ischgl lies at an altitude of 1377 metres, at the foot of the Silvretta, which is already part of the main Alpine ridge. The trails here are particularly long and start in high alpine terrain, well above the 2500 metre mark. Stony, stepped terrain and steep gradients are therefore to be expected on all three tours. However, very technical sections can often be bypassed on gravel roads.
Tour 1: Smugglers' circuit
- Length: 34.7 kilometres
- Uphill: 233 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 2820 metres in depth
- Trail share: 53 per cent
- Difficulty: S0-S3
Tour description
Starting point: Silvrettabahn car park in Ischgl
The tour: The Smuggler's Circuit is Ischgl's unofficial signature tour: a potpourri of shaped flow trails, natural single trails and high alpine panoramic views at an altitude of almost 3000 metres. Take the Silvrettabahn cable car from Ischgl to Idalp and continue by chairlift towards Viderjoch. A few ramps are still missing to the Greitspitze, then the entrance to the legendary Schmuggler Trail opens up: it first balances along the border ridge between Tyrol and Switzerland before turning sharp left towards Samnaun at the Salaaser Kopf.
You fly past the valley station of the Greitspitzbahn cable car in neatly shaped flow trail bends, then it's soon down to the nitty gritty: the path seems to wind gently through lovely alpine terrain, but the idyll is deceptive. The path is often only 20 centimetres wide and lies deep under the turf! Shortly afterwards, the path drops abruptly and leads spectacularly exposed along a waterfall. The key section is so tricky that even pushing requires full concentration!
After the gorge, the terrain eases off and it rolls easily down towards Samnaun/Ravaisch. The gondola takes you back up to the Alptrider Sattl and the Flimsattelbahn railway back up to the border ridge at the Viderjoch. The grand finale awaits here with perhaps Ischgl's best descent: the Velill Trail. Over 1000 metres of descent in one stretch, partly built, partly natural, it leads through open slopes and forest passages directly back to Ischgl.
Key points: If you want to avoid the breakneck gorge path to Samnaun, skip the turn-off at kilometre 13.6 and take the Direttissima to the valley station of the Twinliner cable car
Tour 2: Kronenjoch Epic
- Length: 49.5 kilometres
- Uphill: 1220 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 2616 metres in depth
- Trail share: 55 per cent
- Difficulty: S1 - S2
Tour description
Starting point: Silvrettabahn valley station in Ischgl
The tour: The Kronenjoch crossing is a real adventure: long, high alpine and largely off the beaten track. It passes through sensitive conservation areas, which is why the tour is not officially recommended. If you do it anyway: Please show the greatest consideration for nature, paths and alpine farming! Take the Silvrettabahn cable car towards Äußere Viderjoch and continue on the Schmuggler Trail to Salaaser Kopf. A short counter-climb at the Zeblasjoch, then on to the Fuorcla Val Gronda, where the first longer descent on the Swiss side begins flowing and ends increasingly technically at the Heidelberger Hütte.
An extremely challenging 700 metres in altitude now await you up to the Kronenjoch (at the Foppa Trida turn-off to the Breite Krone viewing summit is possible). The ascent is only partially rideable - borderline even with an E-MTB. At the Kronenjoch, the descent begins on a wide gravel flank: technically moderate at first, but narrow and steep. The trail briefly becomes really nasty, then changes to soft meadow slopes (possibly trodden by cows). After the Jamtalhütte, a final long trail branches off: rooty, stony and always with small steps. In the valley near Galtür, take the cycle path along the Trisanna back to Ischgl.
Key points: From the ascent to the Kronenjoch only with alpine experience!
Retreat: The Heidelberger Hütte is a must!
Tour 3: Friedrichshafener Hütte
- Length: 9.9 kilometres
- Uphill: 695 metres in altitude
- Trail share: 25 per cent
- Difficulty: S1 -S3
Tour description
Starting point: Piel car park
The tour: Short tour into the Verwall mountains: the gravel road climbs almost 700 metres in 16 hairpin bends to the Friedrichshafener Hütte and a little further up, then a trail takes over, which soon descends towards the Friedrichshafener Hütte. Back on the Direttissima trail, which intersects the uphill path several times.
Key points: From the tree line onwards, the trail shows its enduro teeth: narrow, steep, blocked, large rock steps alternate with slippery roots (S2-S3).
Retreat: Panoramic breakfast on the terrace of the Friedrichshafener Hütte!
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