Grisons: Trans Surselva - 2 trail stages through the Vorderrheintal valley
Gitta Beimfohr
· 18.05.2025
Text: Kirsten-J. Sörries
Everything is still in semi-darkness as we roll down the first few metres of singletrack into the valley. As we cross a small road a little later, Luki uses the view over the Rhine Valley, which is just waking up, for a short briefing. He and his girlfriend Jenny will be guiding us through their home area around Flims, Laax and Disentis for the next two days and this vantage point already gives us a good overview: We will follow the waters of the Rhine from its source at the Oberalp Pass deep into the impressive Rhine Gorge. Lukas promises great single trails, spectacular panoramas and, as a special highlight, an overnight stay in a rustic mountain hut.
The first trail this morning is not yet part of the official tour. It is just a short descent from our accommodation down to the petrol station in the valley, where we make our first stop. The door is open and a Namika song is blaring out of the speakers: "And the plonk from the petrol station tastes like coffee in Hawaii...". Surprisingly, we have exactly the same experience. While we wake up with fresh bread rolls and surprisingly good coffee, the sun slowly peeks over the peaks and at least warms our faces. The shuttle car that will take us up to the Oberalp Pass is already pulling up. Our adventure will officially begin up there at an altitude of 2044 metres.
What is a lighthouse doing at the top of the pass?
As the minibus winds its way up the tight bends towards the Oberalp Pass (2044 m), the landscape grows all around us. Shirley discovers the first sections of trail in the green mountain slopes and can't believe her luck that we're really going down there by bike. Until our shuttle finally comes to a halt near a ten-metre-high lighthouse.
Luki lets us sort out the question marks in our heads for a few more seconds until he explains what this beach property in the middle of the Alps is all about: It is a replica of the former "Hoek van Holland front light" lighthouse, which originally marked the mouth of the Rhine into the North Sea. The tower was erected near the source of the Rhine in 2010 and is intended to emphasise the connection between the source and mouth of the Rhine.
The bikes are unloaded, the helmets are in place, one last look over the mirror-smooth mountain lake - our Trans Surselva can begin. Right next to the lighthouse, we start the first trail, which initially winds shyly downhill parallel to the pass road. We cross a small stream again and again and I simply cannot believe that this innocent little mountain stream will really become the mighty Rhine. Yet 350 kilometres further down the valley, there are already veritable ships on the river.
Stop! The first flat tyre. With a group of nine, this was naturally to be feared. But there are worse places for punctures. No matter which way you turn, we are surrounded by the most beautiful mountain panorama and Jenny knows an entertaining story about almost every summit. A quiet mountain road soon takes over for a short uphill section, and a waterfall with its spray mist cools us down. Then it's off to the next trail, which takes us on a spectacular walk over a ridge. It's not easy to concentrate on this trail, as the massive dam wall of the Lai da Curnera rises up in the background.
Official trails - without all the red tape
The long forced break during the pandemic gave him the idea for the "Trans Surselva", Luki explains. In other words, a traverse of the Swiss Upper Rhine Valley, which runs through the western and lesser-known Grisons. Some of the trails on the map were already heavily overgrown or missing altogether. So he contacted representatives of local authorities and tourism organisations to take action himself. Without any red tape and with a real hands-on mentality, some of the best trails in the region were created and at the same time closed the gaps in Luki's dream tour.
A firm favourite on this route is the small Milez mountain pasture, which we reach at lunchtime. Just right to recharge our batteries with delicious capuns. There's also a view over the entire valley, so Luki can draw the route for the afternoon with his outstretched arm in the landscape: "We're about to hit the trails that we recently repaired. They lead around Piz Paradatscha and Bostg all the way down to Disentis. There we get on the cable car and ride up another 700 metres in altitude...!" And the last words are so drawn out that it's clear: there's something really good to come.
The cable car spits us out near the summit of the Bostg. But Luki is not pointing downwards, but upwards: We follow a slightly rough trail that climbs up the narrow and sometimes exposed mountain slope towards the summit. 100 metres in altitude, on which the battery-powered riders in our group naturally pull away easily. But then it's time for the descent: 600 metres of the finest flowing curves all the way down to Sedrun - where we've earned ourselves an ice cream. However, the mood changes briefly when Luki, waffle in hand, points further downstream but clearly uphill: "We're going to spend the night up there!" So there's still a lot of uphill today? Luki laughs: "The shuttle will help."
At the Alpe Glivers, rustic meets modern
The Alpe Glivers welcomes us in a cloud of peace and serenity at an altitude of 1919 metres. From its spacious terrace overlooking the Vorderrheintal valley, we look directly down onto the rushing, turquoise-coloured curves of our companion. Hostess Nadja is kneading the pasta dough for the lasagne, but takes the time to show us around the modern building. The water comes from the mountain, the electricity from the roof and the meat from the farm within walking distance. The alp is part of a solidarity-based farming organisation and is committed to the sustainable development of the region.
The alarm clock rings early again the next morning. We have almost 70 kilometres to cover today and quite a few metres in altitude to climb ourselves. But this time we don't have to head for a petrol station to get a coffee. Our cups are already steaming on the terrace and the first warming rays of sunshine are shining on our faces.
I look over at Luki and Jenny. The two locals are already back in their element and explain the route for the day. They really have achieved a great success with this tour. With passion, a lot of physical effort and love for the region, they have revitalised almost forgotten mountain trails and created an exciting route for mountain bikers. In principle, simply follow the waters of the Rhine - from its source at the Oberalp Pass deep into the spectacular Rhine Gorge - a scenic highlight that we will get to know on today's stage. But I'm already impressed by the attention to detail and care with which the trails have been selected and, in some cases, painstakingly ploughed into the route with a shovel and pickaxe. An experience that I will remember for a long time to come. "Kirsten, are you coming?" Ah, we're taking the trail uphill? Never mind, there will almost certainly be some pretty spectacular reasons for this.
What you need to know
Travelling to Flims Laax
In Switzerland, travelling by train is a reliable and exciting experience: take the train from Germany to Chur, the capital of Bünden, and from there take the PostBus to Flims Laax in 40 minutes. Alternatively, you can take the Rhaetian Railway to Ilanz and take the PostBus from there. Bike transport is no problem on the Postbus.
Tip for car drivers: In Flims Laax there are paid parking spaces available at the lifts. On busy days, these are quickly filled to capacity. Therefore, arrive as early as possible in the morning!
Best time to travel
The tour starts at the Oberalp Pass (2044 m). It is best to check the snow conditions in advance via webcam. However, the trails up here should be clear from mid-June and remain so until September. The cable cars and huts are also open during this time.
The touring area
The region is criss-crossed by an extensive, official trail network. Flowing single trails, technical descents and long tours are signposted. Thanks to the mountain railways and postbus, access to the trails is uncomplicated and convenient.
Built lines of all levels of difficulty with hire service can be found in the large Flims Laax bike park (Gravity Card Member). All information about the bike area: flimslaax.com
Bike shops
These service and spare parts stations are located along the Surselva route between Oberalp and Flims:
- Disentis: Catrina Sport Shop
- Surrein: La Bikeria
- Brigels: Reni Sport
- Ilanz: Menzli Sport
- Flims: Green Valley
Bike shuttle
Where there is no lift or post bus, you can also contact a bike shuttle service. On this tour, for example, to the Oberalp Pass and up to Alp Glivers. Info: Comasone Bike, Info: comasone.bike
Overnight stay
On the tour, we spent the night at Alp Glivers and had an excellent meal there (sustainable agriculture). Advance booking is recommended: alp-glivers.ch
Tip: If you want to stay before or after the tour, the Flem Lodge in Flims is run by the Gehrig twins. The former EWS racers know exactly what flair an accommodation for mountain bikers needs to have. Info: flemlodge.ch
The two stages
Stage 1: From the Oberalp Pass to Sedrun
- Length: 35.9 kilometres
- Uphill: 713 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 1991 metres depth
- Trail share 48 %
- Difficulty S0-S2
Starting point: Oberalp Pass car park. By shuttle from Flims Laax in approx. 40 min. info: comasone.bike
The tour: The trail starts right next to the striking lighthouse. Follow the trail to the road to Milez and follow it uphill for around 15 minutes. In a right-hand bend, at the highest point, the ridge singletrail starts: first in tight serpentines, later as an open mountain trail. Shortly before Tschamut, you cross the pass road and follow a forest road up to Milez. A trail with short counter-climbs begins below the Milez Alm, then it's a smooth descent to Sedrun and a cycle path along the railway line to Curschettas. From there, cycle uphill towards Segnas to the valley station of the Disentis/Caischavedra cable car (27.6.-19.10., every half hour).
It's best to fill up with water at the top, because the next ascent will be long: the trail to the Bostg summit starts flat, but then becomes increasingly technical and steep - stay relaxed in the exposed sections! The route leads into Val Raveras with views of the summit and trail. At the Bostg summit, it is important to follow the "Senda dil Bostg" signposts. This flow trail (with a few S2 sections) leads back to Sedrun.
Important: When the trail meets the forest road, do not continue straight on into the hairpin bend trail, but turn right towards Val Dadens. There follows a beautiful trail with S1/S2 character to Sedrun.
Key points: The ascent trail to the Bostg summit is easy to ride, but is exposed in places. The "Senda dil Bostg" has a few S2 sections, but these are easy to see.
Retreat: Alp Milez: be sure to try the capuns!
Overnight stay: The best way to get to Alp Glivers is by shuttle. alp-glivers.ch
Stage 2: From Alp Glivers to Lake Cauma
- Length: 68.8 kilometres
- Uphill: 1767 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 2654 metres in depth
- Trail share 35 %
- Difficulty S0-S2
Starting point Alp Glivers, Surrein
The tour: Above Alp Glivers, after a few hairpin bends, a narrow singletrail starts in a westerly direction. This trail runs straight and steeply up the slope until it meets an alpine path. Now follow the pleasantly ascending path up towards Alp Crap Ner Sut. After the alp, the path becomes noticeably steeper and soon changes into a varied forest trail with tight bends and some root passages.
The trail then becomes less steep and meanders much more gently downhill through dense forest to the vicinity of Sumvitg - all in all, this adds up to a descent of almost three kilometres. From Surrein, you can either take the Rhaetian Railway to Tavanasa or follow the cycle path along the Vorderrhein, always slightly downhill.
At the Rhine bridge near the village of Tavanasa, the route climbs again. The route first climbs steeply for 700 metres, then becomes increasingly flat. Farm tracks and small roads take you halfway up the mountain slopes between Hitzeggerkopf and Piz Mundaun. Above Surcuolm, a fantastic singletrail starts, which flows smoothly down to Luven - one of the highlights of this stage. There was a landslide here in spring this year, but a signposted bypass has been set up. At least until the trail is fully reopened.
Between Luven and Ilanz, another exciting trail section leads through small gorges and over wooden bridges. The route is varied, technical but always easy to master and there are some beautiful views of the Rhine Valley.
After a short stopover in Ilanz, the route continues along a forest path towards Castrisch. The scenic finale of the stage begins there: a wonderful nature trail directly through the Rhine Gorge. Please note: This section is designated as a shared trail and may only be ridden by bike from 4 pm.
Shortly after Sagogn, you leave the gorge again and climb up towards Flims on quiet side roads. The last section there is a playful trail that leads directly to Lake Cauma.
Key points: The trail above Surcuolm contains a few S2 sections. On all the other trails on this stage, you should always expect tight bends and roots, which can also be slippery when wet.
Retreat: The restaurant at Lake Cauma is the perfect place to stop for a bite to eat - and offers the perfect end to this eventful Trans-Surselva stage.
The GPS data for the Trans Surselva
BIKE subscribers can download the GPX data free of charge from bike-magazin.de under "My area".
Subscribers to the BIKE tour portal will automatically find the GPX data for the tour in their app or can download it here:
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More super tours in the Swiss canton of Graubünden
Gitta Beimfohr
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