The 4810 metre high Mont Blanc is more than just the highest peak in the Alps. Its massif is home to three countries and is surrounded by the longest trails - enough material for a full four-day tour around it on an e-MTB.
My rear wheel digs deep into the sodden ground. The studs have long since clogged up and there's no sign of propulsion. It's arse cold. And somewhere between snowfields and cloud curtains, I briefly ask myself whether it was really a good idea to still be riding my bike at an altitude of 2,500 metres at the end of October. It's hard to say what my three companions think. We must not have spoken for an hour. If only because our small group had split up. There are always these quiet moments of doubt. Concentration. Loneliness. I push the last few metres up to the pass almost meditatively. But then I reach the top of the pass and am back in the middle of the team. Celebratory mood.
The idea came about together with my mate Massimo, better known as Bubba in his home region of Valle d'Aosta. However, as we are both on the road as bike guides throughout the summer, we only had the late autumn for this venture: the Tour du Mont Blanc - four days around the white giant of the Alps. The late time of year is of course a risk, but it also has its advantages, as we won't meet many hikers on our search for the most beautiful trails. The mountain is now ours. Which could be difficult, however: The huts are already closed. We'll have to be economical with our batteries, as we won't be able to recharge over a tasty lunch, and the cold temperatures are likely to drain additional energy. For man and machine.
Start at eight degrees - down in the valley
We chose the Val Ferret in the Swiss eastern flank of the massif as our starting point. With us: Andrea, our photographer from Aosta, and Ace, mountain guide and local from Courmayeur. And although we are all experienced mountaineers, the nervousness is palpable. While Bubba is still frantically stuffing provisions into the free corners of his rucksack, we look up the walls of the long mountain ridge in awe and know that we are starting something really big today.
The tour around Mont Blanc includes some of the longest trail descents in the Alps. Over the next four days, we will have to climb up to or well above the 2000 metre mark six times and experience landscapes and panoramas in three different countries. Or maybe not - because it snowed up there less than 24 hours ago. Unfortunately, we can't judge the extent to which the passes are passable from down here.
"OK, let's go!" shouts Bubba. We set off from the mountain village of La Fouly on a sunny but very cool eight-degree day. The gravel ascent to the Grand Col Ferret starts off relaxed, but as the forest thins out, the path becomes increasingly muddy. Soon rough rock joins the mix and meltwater gullies keep throwing us off our stride. At the top, 2537 metres above sea level, we take a quick dip and seek shelter from the biting wind. We can't sit down because everything around us is white. We are standing in a winter landscape. The Grandes Jorasses opposite are also covered in thick snow. Only the trail, which will now take us through the entire mountain flank and down to Courmayeur, makes a clearly visible line through this humpy wadded carpet.
Ace is at home here on the mountain slopes of Courmayeur. With his finger, he shows us the lines he skis down in winter. Pure climbing terrain - I can't even imagine it when I'm covered in snow. As we roll into Courmayeur, which is already very shady, the after-ride beer is cancelled: Hotel, hot shower, raclette - only then are we warm enough for a goodnight beer.
The next morning, we crank our way up into the world of Val Veny. Past dramatic rock formations and terminal moraines that were hidden under thick glacial ice not so long ago. The summit of Mont Blanc now towers directly above us with its huge glacier falls. As we turn off the forest road shortly after Rifugio Elisabetta, turbo mode is immediately required: the terrain opens up, but steep ramps and blocked passages are a common sight here. Without an electric drive, we would have to push here.
At an altitude of 2512 metres, we cross the border into France at the Col de la Seigne. What follows is a trail highway of the finest kind: brake up and into this endless expanse - apart from us, there's not a soul on the road. The tyres grip the slightly muddy alpine soil wonderfully, except in the shady bends, where a few well-camouflaged slabs of ice lurk. Nevertheless: a dream.
Next stop: Cormet de Roselend. The pass is tarmac and not actually on our planned route, but there is an inn with beds open on the other side of the pass. With a view of the lake in front of the door, we recharge our batteries there - from the kitchen and from the power socket. The full batteries will come in handy tomorrow on the third stage, as the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2443 m) and the Col de Voza (1653 m) on the southern flanks of the Mont Blanc massif are on the programme. Two alpine crossings that have it all. This becomes clear as soon as you look at the map.
In reality, however, we also have to contend with frozen, slippery ground the next day. The sun only makes it over the ridge in the afternoon. But as soon as its rays hit the western flank of the mountain massif in front of us, the ground thaws and clogs the tyre treads, as described at the beginning. A slog that is rewarded: The final descent takes us through the enduro mecca of Les Houches almost all the way down to Chamonix - the cradle of modern alpinism.
The town is full of mountain enthusiasts from all over the world. All the well-known outdoor manufacturers have a branch here in the pedestrianised area. We roll through the hustle and bustle, but keep looking up at the sky: up there, Mont Blanc with its imposing Aiguille du Midi is now shining in the last evening light.
The final: Bubba's special descent
We start the last stage early in the morning on a very fun network of trails in the valley. In principle, we just have to stick to the riverbed of the Arve rushing towards us. It has its source where we still have to climb today: at the 2203 metre high Col de Balme. We briefly harbour the hope that the cable car in Le Tour might still be open - but no: it's closed for maintenance. So we have to save battery and pick up the gravel bends, past the bike park, up to the Col de Balme, where the icy cold wind only allows us to take a quick bite out of our sandwich before the grand finale in Bubba's promised "special descent" down to Trient.
Of course I googled it in bed yesterday. Even Trailforks marked this descent in black. And rightly so, as it turns out: The start is wild, washed out by snow and rain. This is followed by kilometre after kilometre of the finest flow. But then, shortly before Trento, steep hairpin bends pile up in the forest with massive but surprisingly dry roots. After a short period of familiarisation, even this section becomes a pleasure - you can simply rely on Bubba's nose!
Info Tour de Mont Blanc (TMB)
Circumnavigating the highest peak in the Alps - or Europe, if you no longer count the 5642 metre-high Elbrus in the Caucasus as part of the continent - is an enduro challenge that requires good fitness, good riding technique and tenacity. Even, or perhaps especially, on an e-MTB. The climbs in the Mont Blanc massif are long and steep. In principle, a motor helps to save energy here. But from an altitude of 2000 metres at the latest, you are usually confronted with high alpine trails. Rocky, scree-covered and often washed-out trails. If you don't have the necessary riding technique here, you will have to push the bike a lot both uphill and downhill, vaporising additional battery power in the process.
Fortunately, there are many huts along the Mont Blanc route where you can recharge your batteries and usually also spend the night. However, the huts are only open during the summer season, which is quite short due to the weather (mid-June to around mid-September).
Nice to know: The different altitudes of Mont Blanc (from 4805 to 4810 metres) are due to the melting of the 100-metre-thick layer of ice and snow on its summit. As of autumn 2023, the mountain currently measures 4805.59 metres.
Best touring time
The Tour de Mont Blanc is a very popular long-distance hiking trail. Peak season: July and August. During this time, the huts along the route are often fully booked weeks in advance. Mountain bikers are therefore well advised to switch to the low season. However, there is then a risk of a winter slump. In general, the weather in the Western Alps often changes more quickly than in the Eastern Alps, as the lows from the Atlantic rush in unchecked and tend to linger longer in the four-thousand metre peaks. We did our tour at the end of October and had a sunny but frosty window of four days. The already challenging trails alternated between hard-frozen, icy and soggy muddy to slippery. Unfortunately, the fifth stage back to the starting point in La Fouly had to be cancelled due to renewed snowfall. Our tour therefore ended in Trieste, on the western side of the mountain range.
Accommodation
As already mentioned, there are many hut accommodations around Mont Blanc. However, it is essential to book in advance, otherwise you will end up with fully booked beds at the end of a long, tough stage. In terms of price, the accommodation in Switzerland and France tends to be at a higher level. In the very basic Refuge du Col de Balme, for example, an overnight stay in a camp with half board costs 60 euros per person.
Cable car
The only cable car that can help save metres in altitude and 18 percent ramps on the tour in summer is located on the western side of the massif in Le Tour (near Chamonix). Open from mid-June to mid-September. Info: chamonix.com
Guided tour
Next summer, the great Mont Blanc circumnavigation will also be guided and partly with a shuttle service. The start and finish will be in Chamonix and the luggage will be transported. You will therefore not stay overnight in huts, but in comfortable hotels in the valley: Chamonix, La Fouly, Courmayeur and at Lac de Roselend. Date: 8 September, price: from 2150 euros, info: dierasenmaeher.de
Circumnavigation of Mont Blanc - the 4 stages with the E-MTB
We started in the Swiss town of La Fouly and circumnavigated the Mont Blanc massif in a clockwise direction. In this direction, mountain bikers can expect fewer carrying passages. The anti-clockwise tour is recommended for hikers, as it makes it easier to change huts. As a mountain biker, you will only encounter hikers briefly this way (stop and let the hikers go first!), but you won't have to chase after them forever on the long trails.
You can also start the tour from all the larger towns. From Courmayeur or Chamonix, for example. We also chose La Fouly as the starting point because the Grand Col Ferret (2537 m) is the highest point on the first day. After the snowfall beforehand, it was clear that if this pass was passable, then the other crossings on the tour should also be snow-free.
Thanks to the many overnight accommodation options, the tour can be organised very individually and divided up in terms of strength. Our division into 4 stages is intended for very fit E-Enduro bikers who do not lose too much time on technically demanding sections. Experienced battery management is also an advantage on the long, steep climbs with their temperature differences. The tour is therefore much more relaxed if you plan five stages.
In total, the tour covers 177.6 kilometres and 8150 metres in altitude.
Stage 1: Grand Col Ferret
- Length: 35.7 kilometres
- Uphill: 1387 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 1760 metres in depth
- Trail share: 55 per cent
The stage: Immediately after the start, you head up to the highest point of the entire tour: just under 1000 metres in altitude to the 2536-metre-high Grand Col Ferret. From the La Peule hut, you have to contend with a sometimes extremely steep high mountain trail, which should still be reasonably rideable on an e-MTB in dry conditions. We found it very soggy and washed out for the last 400 metres in altitude. The slushy, sticky surface forced us to push in the end. At the top, the view is gigantic: the spectacular peaks of the Grandes Jorasses to the right and the entire Mont Blanc summit parade straight ahead. On the other, now Italian side of the pass, the route initially descends 750 metres on a rough high mountain trail. But after a short, crisp counter-climb, you surf along on a ten-kilometre-long balcony trail against this super backdrop. It almost doesn't get any better than this. At the end, the trail is once again extra-flowy, then the stage rolls out on asphalt for the last six kilometres down to Courmayeur.
Key points: The approximately 70 hairpin bends on the last section up to the Grand Col Ferret are a bit tricky. The descent also has a few steep steps from the Rif. Elena. The Panorama Trail becomes steeper from the Rif. Bonatti (short S3 sections).
Retreat: The Rifugio Walter Bonatti is definitely worth a stop. If only for the view.
Overnight stay: There are various accommodation options in Courmayeur.
Stage 2: Val Veny & Col de la Seigne
- Length: 40.2 kilometres
- Uphill: 2735 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 1519 metres in depth
- Trail share: 46 per cent
The stage: Three steep climbs up to the 2500 metre mark: the second day is tough, but the scenery is stunning with the Val Veny and the Col de la Seigne. If you turn left shortly after Saint Jacques to the Cormet de Roselend and spend the night down by the lake, you save yourself 350 metres in altitude, but have to crank it all back again the next morning.
Key points: The three climbs are long, steep and have typical high alpine pitfalls (steps, gullies), but with the E-MTB, everything is rideable uphill thanks to turbo mode. Watch out on the Col de la Seigne descent: the trails suddenly take a turn!
Retreat: The Rif. Elisabetta is beautifully situated and you can recharge your batteries. Important!
Overnight stay: Chalet de Roselend, chaletderoselend.fr or at the hut: refugecroixdubonhomme.ffcam.fr
Stage 3: Les Houches, Chamonix & Col de Balme
- Length: 59.1 kilometres
- Uphill: 2075 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 2326 metres in depth
- Trail share: 22 per cent
The stage: The third day is also long. If you have planned an extra day, you should plan an overnight stay in Chamonix. Possibly even with a cable car ride up to the famous Aiguille du Midi to come face to face with the white giant once again. A detour to the enduro lines of Les Houches is also worthwhile! In any case, the day starts with a sporty, 1500 metre descent.
At the top on a narrow alpine path through wide, open terrain, at the bottom on a much wider path through the forest. At the bottom in Tresse, the first tough uphill test awaits. The gravel path to the Col de Voza begins steeply, but is nothing compared to the last 200 metres of the pass. Even on an e-MTB, you have to lean over the handlebars to avoid being thrown off. From Les Houches, the route follows the idyllic Arve river to Chamonix. If you don't want to spend the night here, you should think about the last cable car ascent to the Col de Balme in Le Tour.
Key points: The descent from the Col du Bonhommme is tough, but there are only occasional S3 sections in the form of narrow sections and steps. The descent from the Col de Voza is similar. The 18 per cent ramps to the Col de Voza and up to the Col de Balme, on the other hand, are quite common. However, a cable car helps with the latter in Le Tour!
Retreat: On this stage you pass various huts and bars in the villages.
Overnight stay: There are various accommodation options in Chamonix for those who want to go through to the Refuge du Col de Balme: refugeducoldebalme.com
Stage 4: Via the Porte à l'Ô back to La Fouly
- Length: 43.7 kilometres
- Uphill: 1583 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 2172 metres in depth
- Trail share: 57 per cent
The stage: In terms of scenery, the final northern bend around the Mont Blanc massif is somewhat overshadowed. But with almost 25 kilometres of trail, it has a very high fun factor. The day starts with the border crossing back into Switzerland and a 900 metre descent down to Trento - Bubba's "special descent". At the top, there are a few water channels to contend with, followed by several kilometres of the finest flow before the last metres of descent before Trento turn into a tight, twisty root mikado.
The Porte à l'Ô takes you through green alpine meadows one last time to just over 2000 metres above sea level, where another panoramic trail opens up towards the summit region, followed by 700 metres of trail descent on rich but tricky alpine and forest terrain. From Issert, you finally have to work your way up another 600 metres in altitude to La Fouly, but through an idyllic village and on a wild mix of trails that is also fun uphill on an e-MTB.
Key points: The descent from the Col du Balme is rough in the upper section and down from the tree line: steep hairpin bends and massive roots!
The GPS data for the tour
BIKE Magazine and BIKE Premium subscribers can find the GPX data for free download at bike-magazin.de under "My Area".
Subscribers to the BIKE tour portal will automatically find the tour, including a navigable map, in their app:
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